Can anyone provide some advice or images if you have them of solar imaging using a 0.33 FR maybe as I am not even sure it's possible.
I use a DMK""618, has a good framerate of 60fps, the downside is the fov even with a 0.5fr is not very large.
With a 0.33 I could easily do a 4 pane mosaic but is it do-able ?
0.33 FR & Quark
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Re: 0.33 FR & Quark
I have experimented with the Quark and FR configurations.......... this post may be of interest:
http://solarchat.natca.net/viewtopic.ph ... al+reducer
http://solarchat.natca.net/viewtopic.ph ... al+reducer
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Mike Garbett
Selection of Solar and Deep Sky images on Flickr: https://www.flickr.com/photos/mikegarbett/
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Mike Garbett
Selection of Solar and Deep Sky images on Flickr: https://www.flickr.com/photos/mikegarbett/
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Re: 0.33 FR & Quark
grimble_cornet wrote:I have experimented with the Quark and FR configurations.......... this post may be of interest:
http://solarchat.natca.net/viewtopic.ph ... al+reducer
Mike I take it the 3rd pic means the reducer was on the Quark nosepiece & not the CCD ?
I didn't realise you could stack FR'S, I may try this with 2 x 0.5FR's then.
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Re: 0.33 FR & Quark
Tho also realise he did it on a 60mm Lunt solar Scope (using Quark as double stack). It's not something I would do on a regular refractor, not without a front mounted ERF at least.Ewan wrote:grimble_cornet wrote:I have experimented with the Quark and FR configurations.......... this post may be of interest:
http://solarchat.natca.net/viewtopic.ph ... al+reducer
Mike I take it the 3rd pic means the reducer was on the Quark nosepiece & not the CCD ?
I didn't realise you could stack FR'S, I may try this with 2 x 0.5FR's then.
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Re: 0.33 FR & Quark
Sorry for any confusion guys.............................
It's NOT a Lunt Solar Scope - it's a simple 60mm achromatic refractor which Lunt package along with their CaK1200 diagonal as a Calcium K-line 'kit'. I use it as my 'travelling' scope as I can use it for white light (add Baader wedge), CaK (as designed) and for Ha by adding the Quark
I was trying a number of different ways of combining FRs with the Quark:
My first attempt was to place a 1.25" x0.5FR on the nose of the camera - the way most people do it: This works but the Quark's 1.25" eyepiece holder is single screw and allows the camera to 'flop around' causing uneven illumination, vignetting and poor contrast as the bandpass gets wider if the optical path 'bends' by even a fraction of a degree.
The solution was to replace the 1.25" holder with a series of screw stepping rings and the FR with a 2" version from TS. This improved things a great deal but I needed to experiment with the spacing between the FR and the camera sensor.
As a result of 'playing around' I discovered (much to my surprise) that screwing the old 1.25" FR into the nose of the Quark also worked rather well!
So, picture 3 is with just the 1.25" FR screwed to the Quark nose-piece (inside the smaller aluminium tube) to give x0.58 reduction and a pretty flat field.
Picture 4 is with the 1.25" fitted as in picture 3 BUT..... with the 2" fitted as in the photograph above, 29mm from the camera sensor. This 'double stacking' of the two FRs gives x0.35 which is pretty close to the x0.33 which Ewan was asking about.
It's NOT a Lunt Solar Scope - it's a simple 60mm achromatic refractor which Lunt package along with their CaK1200 diagonal as a Calcium K-line 'kit'. I use it as my 'travelling' scope as I can use it for white light (add Baader wedge), CaK (as designed) and for Ha by adding the Quark
I was trying a number of different ways of combining FRs with the Quark:
My first attempt was to place a 1.25" x0.5FR on the nose of the camera - the way most people do it: This works but the Quark's 1.25" eyepiece holder is single screw and allows the camera to 'flop around' causing uneven illumination, vignetting and poor contrast as the bandpass gets wider if the optical path 'bends' by even a fraction of a degree.
The solution was to replace the 1.25" holder with a series of screw stepping rings and the FR with a 2" version from TS. This improved things a great deal but I needed to experiment with the spacing between the FR and the camera sensor.
As a result of 'playing around' I discovered (much to my surprise) that screwing the old 1.25" FR into the nose of the Quark also worked rather well!
So, picture 3 is with just the 1.25" FR screwed to the Quark nose-piece (inside the smaller aluminium tube) to give x0.58 reduction and a pretty flat field.
Picture 4 is with the 1.25" fitted as in picture 3 BUT..... with the 2" fitted as in the photograph above, 29mm from the camera sensor. This 'double stacking' of the two FRs gives x0.35 which is pretty close to the x0.33 which Ewan was asking about.
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Mike Garbett
Selection of Solar and Deep Sky images on Flickr: https://www.flickr.com/photos/mikegarbett/
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Mike Garbett
Selection of Solar and Deep Sky images on Flickr: https://www.flickr.com/photos/mikegarbett/
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Re: 0.33 FR & Quark
I do need to try this too Mike...
http://brierleyhillsolar.blogspot.co.uk/
Solar images, a collection of all the most up to date live solar data on the web, imaging & processing tutorials - please take a look!
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Re: 0.33 FR & Quark
Very interesting, Mike. Last week I tried using two 0.5x reducers (1.25 inch) - one either end of the Quark - with my 60mm scope. I used a UV/IR cut in front the scope-side reducer. I was surprised to see a very round looking sharp sun, giving me an easy full disc with my ASI174 :-o
However contrast was pretty low and I haven't managed to stack the images cleanly yet (and have had a good run of late with my 120mm images so am busy now stacking those) so I am not sure yet if it's viable with my setup. I'd love to be able to do single tile full disc with my 60mm. My scope is F6, could it be a touch too fast for this setup? The seeing was awful that day and I struggled with white light too at prime focus, so it was not really a good test!
However contrast was pretty low and I haven't managed to stack the images cleanly yet (and have had a good run of late with my 120mm images so am busy now stacking those) so I am not sure yet if it's viable with my setup. I'd love to be able to do single tile full disc with my 60mm. My scope is F6, could it be a touch too fast for this setup? The seeing was awful that day and I struggled with white light too at prime focus, so it was not really a good test!
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Re: 0.33 FR & Quark
Thanks Mike that's cleared a few points up for me.grimble_cornet wrote:Sorry for any confusion guys.............................
It's NOT a Lunt Solar Scope - it's a simple 60mm achromatic refractor which Lunt package along with their CaK1200 diagonal as a Calcium K-line 'kit'. I use it as my 'travelling' scope as I can use it for white light (add Baader wedge), CaK (as designed) and for Ha by adding the Quark
I was trying a number of different ways of combining FRs with the Quark:
My first attempt was to place a 1.25" x0.5FR on the nose of the camera - the way most people do it: This works but the Quark's 1.25" eyepiece holder is single screw and allows the camera to 'flop around' causing uneven illumination, vignetting and poor contrast as the bandpass gets wider if the optical path 'bends' by even a fraction of a degree.
The solution was to replace the 1.25" holder with a series of screw stepping rings and the FR with a 2" version from TS. This improved things a great deal but I needed to experiment with the spacing between the FR and the camera sensor.
As a result of 'playing around' I discovered (much to my surprise) that screwing the old 1.25" FR into the nose of the Quark also worked rather well!
So, picture 3 is with just the 1.25" FR screwed to the Quark nose-piece (inside the smaller aluminium tube) to give x0.58 reduction and a pretty flat field.
Picture 4 is with the 1.25" fitted as in picture 3 BUT..... with the 2" fitted as in the photograph above, 29mm from the camera sensor. This 'double stacking' of the two FRs gives x0.35 which is pretty close to the x0.33 which Ewan was asking about.
The single screw EP holder problem is what I have fou d as well, I actually thought it was when adding the 0.5fr to the CCD it was 'wobbling' on the 3 screws in the top og the quark EP holder.
The holder could have done with being longer in my opinion.
I may get the 2"fr & try it along with the 1.25" if what I understand it's safe to do.