Page 1 of 1

DayStar T scanner TS-1??

Posted: Thu Nov 08, 2018 12:24 am
by Merlin66
Anyone still using this obsolete TS-1 Daystar H alpha filter?
If so, what are the issues????
Let me know,
ken
http://www.company7.com/daystar/products_old.html

Re: DayStar T scanner TS-1??

Posted: Thu Nov 08, 2018 7:57 am
by mdwmark
Well I know of a few that are used. I converted them to a TEC controlled ovens so they will work all year long.
Mark

Re: DayStar T scanner TS-1??

Posted: Thu Nov 08, 2018 8:12 am
by mdwmark

Re: DayStar T scanner TS-1??

Posted: Sat Nov 10, 2018 9:52 pm
by Valery
mdwmark wrote:
Thu Nov 08, 2018 7:57 am
Well I know of a few that are used. I converted them to a TEC controlled ovens so they will work all year long.
Mark
What is the cost of such an upgrade?

Re: DayStar T scanner TS-1??

Posted: Sun Nov 11, 2018 7:57 am
by Merlin66
I don’t know about the ION update costs, but Daystar quoted >$850 for blocking and trimmer replacement- No guarantee

Re: DayStar T scanner TS-1??

Posted: Sun Nov 11, 2018 9:23 am
by TheSkyBurner
mdwmark wrote:
Thu Nov 08, 2018 7:57 am
Well I know of a few that are used. I converted them to a TEC controlled ovens so they will work all year long.
Mark
how hot would you have to cook a lunt or coronado etalon to get a controllable wing shift?

Re: DayStar T scanner TS-1??

Posted: Wed Nov 14, 2018 8:28 am
by mdwmark
HI group,
The cost of converting the TS-1 to TEC is not that much. But I like to check them out first to make sure the etalon is still good.
If you are in Europe they will be ship through Baader Planetarium. So you can contact them about shipping.
In the US they would go through Alpine Astro.
The blockers are usually in the $600 range with an 5 year warranty.
The one disadvantage with the TS-1 is that the peak could be on band at 5-10C. So if you are where there is a lot of humidity. You may only be able get the bandpass closer to Ha then use the tilt to bring it on band. You don't want to have dew forming on the back of the filter because the temperature is to low.The standard minimum setting on the control chip is 15C.
If we need to go lower then 15C. I would use the B-1 controller instead.
I am using a new high efficiency TEC controllers that are rated at 4 and 6 amp depending on the power needed.
So if you have one you want look at, the only cost for checking it out is the cost of the shipping.
Mark W.

Re: DayStar T scanner TS-1??

Posted: Wed Nov 14, 2018 9:30 am
by Merlin66
Mark,
I’m in Australia.
Can you confirm the size and design of the filter tilting screw?
I’ve just received it - it looks promising and is mounted on a 2” diagonal bur the tilt screw is missing.....
Looks like a 3/16” thread??
Appreciate any input.
Ken

Re: DayStar T scanner TS-1??

Posted: Wed Nov 14, 2018 9:52 pm
by Merlin66
The details I have:
Unit is a Daystar Solar Filter model TS-1
Serial # TS-697
Operating temperature - Ambient
Power - Not applicable
Cw - 6562.8 A
HW - 0.7
Daystar TS-1.jpg
Daystar TS-1.jpg (109.4 KiB) Viewed 81 times
I'd like to at least try it in a f30 beam (with upfront ERF) but need to solve the tilt screw problem.....
(EDIT: Tried a 3/16"w and a 5mm screw in the tilt adjuster threaded hole - close but neither of them go in.... OK I think it may be a 10-32 UNF thread, I'll try to find a local supplier...)
)

Re: DayStar T scanner TS-1??

Posted: Thu Nov 15, 2018 11:38 pm
by mdwmark
Hi Ken,
The screw is a 10/32 thread. If you have to change the threads to metric, Take off the back plate with the spring. You should have enough room to run a tap with the cell tilted.
Mark W.

Re: DayStar T scanner TS-1??

Posted: Thu Nov 15, 2018 11:51 pm
by Merlin66
Mark,
Thanks for that, appreciated.
I’ve managed to source a 10-32 set screw, Is the end of the screw just a domed end where it interfaces with the tilter?
I haven’t obviously dismantled the filter. The front gold element looks pretty clear and the rear red element has a couple of small bubbles.
I think the 2” diagonal isn’t an original part of the filter, added later by the previous owner.

Re: DayStar T scanner TS-1??

Posted: Fri Nov 16, 2018 8:15 am
by mdwmark
HI Ken,
The normal screw was a plastic knurled-head thumb screw.We would smooth the bottom of the screw so it would not dig into the cell of the filter stack.
The easiest way to check the filter. Is to put on the scope, point it at the sun, and without an eyepiece look into the back(red side). Be back about a least 300mm. It should look clear. This is just to see if the ITF has failed or the etalon is still good. If it looks dark the bandpass blocker may have shifted or degraded. Just because the front blockers is gold doesn't mean that it is still good.
If you need anything , contract me direct. I don't have an dealer in Australia.
Mark W.
PS: I have changed old ATM's to 12 volt dc with an low cost controller and also changed the ATM's to TEC controlled ovens.