focus help for solar

this is the main message area for anything solar :)
Post Reply
Taipan
Ohhhhhh My!
Ohhhhhh My!
Posts: 85
Joined: Mon Jun 13, 2016 3:23 pm
Location: Linköping, Sweden
Has thanked: 1 time
Been thanked: 39 times

focus help for solar

Post by Taipan »

Using a Lunt 50 and a ZWO ASI 178mm.
What program do you use when you filming?
And because its so hard to se the screen on the computer when you are out in the syn. Is there som focus aid function for the sun??
Tried Firecapture but have problems with frames not being saved. And just downloaded Sharpcap to try it out.
/Mattias


Lunt LS60MT/B600PT SS. Neptune-M (IMX178), Apollo-M Mini
User avatar
marktownley
Librarian
Librarian
Posts: 42638
Joined: Tue Oct 18, 2011 5:27 pm
Location: Brierley Hills, UK
Has thanked: 20940 times
Been thanked: 10587 times
Contact:

Re: focus help for solar

Post by marktownley »

Hi Mattias, I use Firecapture. You can put the laptop in a cardboard box to shield it from the sun light.


Image
http://brierleyhillsolar.blogspot.co.uk/
Solar images, a collection of all the most up to date live solar data on the web, imaging & processing tutorials - please take a look!
User avatar
robert
Way More Fun to Share It!!
Way More Fun to Share It!!
Posts: 3071
Joined: Fri Oct 14, 2011 1:49 pm
Location: N.W.Scotland
Has thanked: 4 times
Been thanked: 1284 times
Contact:

Re: focus help for solar

Post by robert »

Focus on the limb to start with.
Motor focus helps and as Mark says shade the laptop.
I use firecapture
Robert


images and animations http://tinyurl.com/h5bgoso
2024 images https://www.flickr.com/photos/69734017@ ... 0313830045
2023 images https://www.flickr.com/photos/69734017@ ... 0304905278
ED80. ED100. Celestron-150mm-PST mod. C8 edge. ES127
LS60PT-LS60F-B1200. B600-Cak. PGR-Ch3-IMX265
Starry Jack
Almost There...
Almost There...
Posts: 783
Joined: Tue Feb 03, 2015 3:44 pm
Location: Vista, CA
Has thanked: 141 times
Been thanked: 240 times
Contact:

Re: focus help for solar

Post by Starry Jack »

Use a brimmed hat and a light shroud as well. Get some fabric from a fabric store that is meant to out in windows to block light and attach it to your cardboard box and blanket it over your head. I sometimes also use a dark plastic bin which doubles as a storage transport bin as well for the Astro gear.


Explore Scientific 152mm f6.5 achromat
Aeries D-ERF
Quark Chromosphere f27 native, (f14 when focal reduced)
Mallincam .5x focal reducer (large format)
12nm Filter
ZWO174 (IMX249 chip 5um)
Huge Sense of Adventure Viewing Creation
User avatar
PDB
Almost There...
Almost There...
Posts: 702
Joined: Mon Aug 15, 2016 4:23 pm
Location: Belgium
Has thanked: 2 times
Been thanked: 149 times

Re: focus help for solar

Post by PDB »

Hi Mattias,

Most of the capture programs (FireCapture, Genika and probably also SharpCap) have built-in focus aids. However never had very good results with it. What gives me very good results is Genika with the autofocus feature. But that requires a solid focuser with motor (Needs an absolute focuser) That with a ls50 and standard focuser not possible.

However there is a "trick" that you can use for manual focusing. Place the Sun so in fov that you have also the limb (or full disc) in view. Make sure your you don't over expose. Histogram should not touch the right side. Then take a look at the left side of the histogram. You will see a "dip" in the histogram.
When you focus, that dip will go up/down. Try to get it as low as possible, then you have reached correct focus.

Regards,

Paul


User avatar
Rusted
Way More Fun to Share It!!
Way More Fun to Share It!!
Posts: 1741
Joined: Fri Jan 19, 2018 11:00 am
Location: Central Denmark
Has thanked: 8186 times
Been thanked: 1943 times
Contact:

Re: focus help for solar

Post by Rusted »

Shade boxes have been mentioned by you can make the box even better.
You need a tall, deep box [front to back] to exclude light but not too small.
I tried many sizes of free boxes from the supermarket stack and was surprised how big a box I needed.
You still need to reach the keyboard comfortably to type and to see the screen easily without ducking own.
You must also have several cables plugged into the laptop.
Inexpensive 90°elbow cables, plug or adapters can help to avoid making holes in the box for the cables.
Where they are impossible to reach to plug in or to pull out.

I use SharpCap but focus manually using its Zoom feature at 150%.
Getting a sharp edge to the sun's image is far easier than looking for subtle surface features.

I always wear a dark baseball cap with a black peak and black clothing while imaging.
Pale clothing will be reflected straight back off the screen into your eyes.
Making it difficult to see anything at all.

Even black clothing will reflect if you are in direct sunshine.
It is far easier to work in shade if you can. Far more comfortable as well.
Put the telescope out in the sun but sit in the shade. With your laptop on a small table or similar.
The shadow of a building, under a balcony, or in the shadow of a hedge, bush or tree can all help.
Avoid any bright reflections from surfaces behind you. They will light up the screen and reduce contrast.

You can use make a small dark cover using lightweight tarpaulins and tent poles for shade.
Or even a dark, cloth, sun canopy to shade you.
We have a big, "ridge tent flysheet" type of sunshade on very tall, tent poles.
Ideal for shade from the hot sun when working out of doors.
It doesn't have to be very big to provide enough shade just for you though.
Some lightweight tarpaulins are black on the inside and dark green the other.
Ideal for a making a small sun screen.

A longer USB3 camera cable may be necessary. No need for a special ZWO.
I use a 2m long USB3 cable on my ZWO ASI174MM with no problems at all.

I hardly ever use my ASUS 15.6" laptop screen any more. Far too shiny and far too small for imaging.
So I use a 25" computer monitor in the darkness of my observatory dome.
The black interior of my dome kills reflected light and shades me from the hot and blinding sunshine.
While the telescope can still see out of the observation slit. An ideal but rather expensive option.


http://fullerscopes.blogspot.dk/

H-alpha: Baader 160mm D-ERF, iStar 150/10 H-alpha objective, 2" Baader 35nm H-a, 2" Beloptik KG3,
Lunt 60MT etalon, Lunt B1200S2 BF, Assorted T-S GPCs or 2x "Shorty" Barlow, ZWO ASI174.
Post Reply