Coronado PST testing
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Coronado PST testing
Miracles happen, it was actually sunny on a Saturday! I had only the usual hour between the gaps in the upstairs bedroom window (still no sign of the new one yet). I bought a new PST a couple of weeks ago at the International Astronomy show and I wanted to test its performance against my original one.
The first thing I noticed was that it was a dream to move the etalon, silky smooth and in no time I had it on band. I then changed to my old one and it was terrible, it was a way off band (oops haven't changed it for a while). It then took 20 minutes to try and get it on band as the etalon is so stiff and won't move and drags the mount with it. After a fight I think I got it right. So I took an image with both in single and double stack. The new PST is twice as bright as the old one, for instance it was 1/300 (or thereabouts with the old) and 1/900 for the new PST in single stack mode with the DMK41.
Single stack old
2019-11-30 13-14-08_SS Old f colour by Alexandra Hart, on Flickr
Single stack new
2019-11-30 12-51-10_SS New f colour by Alexandra Hart, on Flickr
Double stack old
2019-11-30 13-42-15_DS Old f colour by Alexandra Hart, on Flickr
Double stack New
2019-11-30 13-01-03_DS New f colour by Alexandra Hart, on Flickr
One thing I do need to get right is finding the sweet spot for the new PST and rotating the DS unit to try and get a more even field. I also need to get the Chameleon out too. That will hopefully be tomorrow if I get more sunny weather.
Overall I am very pleased indeed with the new PST and I think it might be the old one that goes to the breakers yard for the PST mod unless anyone else has any ideas why not.
Alexandra
The first thing I noticed was that it was a dream to move the etalon, silky smooth and in no time I had it on band. I then changed to my old one and it was terrible, it was a way off band (oops haven't changed it for a while). It then took 20 minutes to try and get it on band as the etalon is so stiff and won't move and drags the mount with it. After a fight I think I got it right. So I took an image with both in single and double stack. The new PST is twice as bright as the old one, for instance it was 1/300 (or thereabouts with the old) and 1/900 for the new PST in single stack mode with the DMK41.
Single stack old
2019-11-30 13-14-08_SS Old f colour by Alexandra Hart, on Flickr
Single stack new
2019-11-30 12-51-10_SS New f colour by Alexandra Hart, on Flickr
Double stack old
2019-11-30 13-42-15_DS Old f colour by Alexandra Hart, on Flickr
Double stack New
2019-11-30 13-01-03_DS New f colour by Alexandra Hart, on Flickr
One thing I do need to get right is finding the sweet spot for the new PST and rotating the DS unit to try and get a more even field. I also need to get the Chameleon out too. That will hopefully be tomorrow if I get more sunny weather.
Overall I am very pleased indeed with the new PST and I think it might be the old one that goes to the breakers yard for the PST mod unless anyone else has any ideas why not.
Alexandra
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Re: Coronado PST testing
Alexandra:
In your "comparo" test I like better the old one, looks like it has a shorter band, aside of giving a more even image.
You can try to get the best adjustment on your new one and then compare it with the old one.
More brightness can be because the BF (filter) of the new PST is more transmitting, (I have BF10, BF15, BF30 and all give different brightness at the focal point).
You can also try the PST etalon with a bigger scope.
Hope that some forists with more experience on PST etalons can give you a better idea.
Best wishes,
Eric.
In your "comparo" test I like better the old one, looks like it has a shorter band, aside of giving a more even image.
You can try to get the best adjustment on your new one and then compare it with the old one.
More brightness can be because the BF (filter) of the new PST is more transmitting, (I have BF10, BF15, BF30 and all give different brightness at the focal point).
You can also try the PST etalon with a bigger scope.
Hope that some forists with more experience on PST etalons can give you a better idea.
Best wishes,
Eric.
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Re: Coronado PST testing
Hi Alexandra...
Glad you had a clear day to try the new PST, and these images look great
They look close to my eye, but I'd give a slight edge to the old one as well.
Brian
Glad you had a clear day to try the new PST, and these images look great
They look close to my eye, but I'd give a slight edge to the old one as well.
Brian
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Re: Coronado PST testing
Hi Alexandra,
I too think I prefer the old PST image, even though it is dimmer - it appears a bit more uniform.
Just a thought - have you checked the ITF for rust? Replacing it in the older PST might give you a considerable bump in brightness. Better yet, using a Baader 35 nm Ha filter as an objective ERF and using a BelOptik UV/IR KG3 as a replacement for the ITF could be a significant improvement... Might be worth a try.
Don't have much input on how to fix the stiffness issue, perhaps some others have some experience there.
I too think I prefer the old PST image, even though it is dimmer - it appears a bit more uniform.
Just a thought - have you checked the ITF for rust? Replacing it in the older PST might give you a considerable bump in brightness. Better yet, using a Baader 35 nm Ha filter as an objective ERF and using a BelOptik UV/IR KG3 as a replacement for the ITF could be a significant improvement... Might be worth a try.
Don't have much input on how to fix the stiffness issue, perhaps some others have some experience there.
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Re: Coronado PST testing
Alexandra,
The old PST has always produced what I consider the Gold Standard of PST images. Maybe once you get the new one dialed in, it will perform better. The filters in the PST seem to have a limited lifespan and Bob's suggestion may give new life to the old one. If both scopes are the newer design, with both filters in the eyepiece holder, swapping them would tell you if the old ITF has deteriorated. A strap wrench will be needed 'cause they're tight.
All in all, both sets of images are very good.
Phil
The old PST has always produced what I consider the Gold Standard of PST images. Maybe once you get the new one dialed in, it will perform better. The filters in the PST seem to have a limited lifespan and Bob's suggestion may give new life to the old one. If both scopes are the newer design, with both filters in the eyepiece holder, swapping them would tell you if the old ITF has deteriorated. A strap wrench will be needed 'cause they're tight.
All in all, both sets of images are very good.
Phil
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Re: Coronado PST testing
Alexandra,
I agree with the above Re the ITF.
The stiffness could be the grease/ O Rings hardening.....clean and re-grease May be needed.
Ken
I agree with the above Re the ITF.
The stiffness could be the grease/ O Rings hardening.....clean and re-grease May be needed.
Ken
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Re: Coronado PST testing
With the greatest respect, I found no difference from applying white grease or silicone rubber oil [for push fit plumbing gaskets] to the original PST o-rings.
Going back to the original 42mm x 2mm o-rings [well greased] still makes my etalon band very difficult to turn.
I have tried a range of 1.5mm o-rings [45, 46 and 47mm Ø] but they were all too thin. Causing major slop in the etalon band.
Changing the o-rings to monofilament nylon [1.3mm and 1.6mm] didn't help very much.
One is too small [too sloppy] and the other no better than the original 2mm o-rings. [Too Tight!]
I'm now looking for 1.7mm o-rings. Or lengths of continuous 1.7mm, o-ring material. None of these exist at the usual stockists.
BTW: The rings do not need to be continuous. Just enough length for slightly short of a circumference. Overlaps would bulk up.
The material is pressed into the groove with a thumbnail as the outer, etalon shell is slipped back over.
I have also confirmed that the drive screw does not spoil the image, nor alter the sweet spot, if the etalon band is far too sloppy.
The etalon itself seems immune to any rocking of the outer shell.
Going back to the original 42mm x 2mm o-rings [well greased] still makes my etalon band very difficult to turn.
I have tried a range of 1.5mm o-rings [45, 46 and 47mm Ø] but they were all too thin. Causing major slop in the etalon band.
Changing the o-rings to monofilament nylon [1.3mm and 1.6mm] didn't help very much.
One is too small [too sloppy] and the other no better than the original 2mm o-rings. [Too Tight!]
I'm now looking for 1.7mm o-rings. Or lengths of continuous 1.7mm, o-ring material. None of these exist at the usual stockists.
BTW: The rings do not need to be continuous. Just enough length for slightly short of a circumference. Overlaps would bulk up.
The material is pressed into the groove with a thumbnail as the outer, etalon shell is slipped back over.
I have also confirmed that the drive screw does not spoil the image, nor alter the sweet spot, if the etalon band is far too sloppy.
The etalon itself seems immune to any rocking of the outer shell.
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Re: Coronado PST testing
Hi Alexandra,
Interesting and yes that is not an easy task to get the Hot Spot in place ...
I have mine rotated by 90°
Interesting and yes that is not an easy task to get the Hot Spot in place ...
I have mine rotated by 90°
regards Rainer
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Re: Coronado PST testing
I think the old etalon is the clear winner. I bet the ITF on that PST is a rusty as heck, given what you're saying about exposure times; I also bet the same thing on you CaK PST too.
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Re: Coronado PST testing
Hi Alexandra,
Difficult to say for sure based on this one test. I would suggest that there’s no rush, given that you won’t be able to use the larger scope for a few months, so try the comparison again when the conditions improve in spring and you get more of a chance to ‘fiddle’ with the settings and properly optimise each. In the meantime, as Mark and others have suggested, maybe check the ITF for rust and try to loosen up the old etalon.
Stu.
Difficult to say for sure based on this one test. I would suggest that there’s no rush, given that you won’t be able to use the larger scope for a few months, so try the comparison again when the conditions improve in spring and you get more of a chance to ‘fiddle’ with the settings and properly optimise each. In the meantime, as Mark and others have suggested, maybe check the ITF for rust and try to loosen up the old etalon.
Stu.
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Re: Coronado PST testing
The 'stiff tuning' of the old etalon assembly will be caused by the foam gasket that the etalon sitting on in it's chamber compressing over time, I seem to remember you had to adjust the position of the screw to be able to get on band a few years ago? The new PST will have a nice soft and springy foam gasket still, hence why it is easier to tune; give it several years and the chances are you'll need to adjust screw position on that as the gasket naturally compresses. The tighter tuning isn't a bad thing and will prevent flop of etalon, which can be a frustrating thing in itself.
Whichever etalon you use with the C11 you'll find there is a clocked position that produces best result with flattest field and least gradient across the fov. Like Stu says, won't be till next year when you can do some meaningful testing at large apertures, till then use the winter period to assemble all the bits needed.
Whichever etalon you use with the C11 you'll find there is a clocked position that produces best result with flattest field and least gradient across the fov. Like Stu says, won't be till next year when you can do some meaningful testing at large apertures, till then use the winter period to assemble all the bits needed.
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Re: Coronado PST testing
Thanks guys for all the info.
My main object I think was to leave myself with a good PST for visual and quick full discs and I think the new PST will do this once I optimise it. I think the bandpass seems very similar to the old one and if anything it seems to have more contrast. It also works well with my DS unit which is also pleasing. I also have doubts about the ITF and blocking filter of the old one so if I break this one apart for the PST mod I will only be using the etalon so I will remove the faulty bits yes? so that solves another problem. I think the stiff etalon is going to be an nightmare to fine tune on the C11 though but I guess once it is done hopefully it won't move much. These are my ideas anyway.
I bought a rubber boa last week, never seen one in my life before so I didn't know what I was looking for but I found one in the local shop. So I am ready I think I can see myself putting this job off for as long as possible, I might stare at it for hours too, the whole thought sends me a quiver.
Alexandra
My main object I think was to leave myself with a good PST for visual and quick full discs and I think the new PST will do this once I optimise it. I think the bandpass seems very similar to the old one and if anything it seems to have more contrast. It also works well with my DS unit which is also pleasing. I also have doubts about the ITF and blocking filter of the old one so if I break this one apart for the PST mod I will only be using the etalon so I will remove the faulty bits yes? so that solves another problem. I think the stiff etalon is going to be an nightmare to fine tune on the C11 though but I guess once it is done hopefully it won't move much. These are my ideas anyway.
I bought a rubber boa last week, never seen one in my life before so I didn't know what I was looking for but I found one in the local shop. So I am ready I think I can see myself putting this job off for as long as possible, I might stare at it for hours too, the whole thought sends me a quiver.
Alexandra
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Re: Coronado PST testing
You need to take off the tuning ring and locating screw when you use the boa, grip directly to the housing...
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Re: Coronado PST testing
At the risk of further pedantry, but for absolute clarity, you must remove the knurled rubber band first.marktownley wrote: ↑Mon Dec 02, 2019 8:46 am You need to take off the tuning ring and locating screw when you use the boa, grip directly to the housing...
Followed by the cross-head screw and then the outer, metal ring [or sleeve] lying over the o-rings.
Only then can you use the boa on the inner etalon housing.
My etalon housing was so tight I had to hold down the body on a bench with two brand new, carpenter's F-clamps.
Then the boa strap was fed through a plastic plumbing pipe to provide a little more leverage.
The tube also provided more hand comfort and to keep the boa's strap firmly in its track after an hour of intense struggling.
Despite decades of hands-on, mechanical and engineering experience, I very nearly gave up on my PST ever coming apart.
It was so tightly bonded with rock hard, red, thread locker I feared the etalon housing would disintegrate under the pressure!
The thread locker was so hard that it does not respond to sharp hand tools in its later attempts at removal to clean the threads.
Even when I heard the first loud crack from the locked joint being "broken free" it took another hour to finally remove the etalon.
Some illustration of the dismantled parts:
https://fullerscopes.blogspot.com/2018/ ... parts.html
https://fullerscopes.blogspot.com/2018/ ... strap.html
Here's an image of my rusty ITF as purchased [secondhand.]
https://fullerscopes.blogspot.com/2018/ ... prism.html
I purchased a Maier ITF and it was worth every penny.
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Re: Coronado PST testing
Thanks guys for the information. We have managed to get the gold tube off the PST, the rubber ring off the etalon and removed the screw and the housing. There was a lot of grease under the ring which I cleaned off with a towel. However the rubber boa still keeps slipping, there is no grip. What is the best way to clean the grease off to get a good grip? any tricks or tips? otherwise it doesn't look like we will shift it.
Alexandra
Alexandra
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Re: Coronado PST testing
If you have a black and decker work bench thingy you can try clamping the greasy end in this and using the boa to twist the black box.
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Re: Coronado PST testing
Well,
I don't know how so many people do PST mods? it should not be recommended on this forum. I think I have just wasted more than a £1000, this is too much money!
We bought a new rubber boa today, a large one as obviously the one we bought before would not go round the main body as Mark suggested. After an hour on the work bench we managed to get the etalon around 1 and 3/4 turns. It never got any easier and is still as firmly stuck as it was before. We now snapped the extra big boa. This etalon will not turn and will not come off.
We give up.
Alexandra
I don't know how so many people do PST mods? it should not be recommended on this forum. I think I have just wasted more than a £1000, this is too much money!
We bought a new rubber boa today, a large one as obviously the one we bought before would not go round the main body as Mark suggested. After an hour on the work bench we managed to get the etalon around 1 and 3/4 turns. It never got any easier and is still as firmly stuck as it was before. We now snapped the extra big boa. This etalon will not turn and will not come off.
We give up.
Alexandra
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Re: Coronado PST testing
Hi Alexandra...
Disappointing to hear that the disassembly is such a challenge.
I may be mistaken, but I thought that I read in the forum a while back that the newer PST's had a 'lock tight' type of material applied to the threads. If this is correct, that could explain why you are having trouble.
Hopefully others can offer some suggestions,
Brian
Disappointing to hear that the disassembly is such a challenge.
I may be mistaken, but I thought that I read in the forum a while back that the newer PST's had a 'lock tight' type of material applied to the threads. If this is correct, that could explain why you are having trouble.
Hopefully others can offer some suggestions,
Brian
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Maple Ridge Observatory
Cambray, ON Canada
Photos: https://www.flickr.com/photos/185395281@N08/albums
10'x15 Roll-off Roof Observatory
Takahashi EM400 Mount carrying:
C14 + Lunt 80ED
Deep Sky Work - ASI294MM Pro+EFW 7x36/Canon 60D (Ha mod), ONAG
Planetary Work - SBIG CFW10, ASI462MM
2.2m Diameter Dome
iOptron CEM70G Mount carrying:
Orion EON 130ED, f7 OTA for Day & Night Use
Ha Setup: Lunt LS80PT/LS75FHa/B1200Ha + Home Brew Lunt Double Stack/B1800Ha on the Orion OTA + Daystar Quantum
WL, G-Band & CaK Setup: Lunt Wedge & Lunt B1800CaK, Baader K-Line and Altair 2nm G-Band filter
ASI1600MM, ASI432MM, ASI294MM Pro, ASI174MM, ASI462MM
Maple Ridge Observatory
Cambray, ON Canada
Photos: https://www.flickr.com/photos/185395281@N08/albums
10'x15 Roll-off Roof Observatory
Takahashi EM400 Mount carrying:
C14 + Lunt 80ED
Deep Sky Work - ASI294MM Pro+EFW 7x36/Canon 60D (Ha mod), ONAG
Planetary Work - SBIG CFW10, ASI462MM
2.2m Diameter Dome
iOptron CEM70G Mount carrying:
Orion EON 130ED, f7 OTA for Day & Night Use
Ha Setup: Lunt LS80PT/LS75FHa/B1200Ha + Home Brew Lunt Double Stack/B1800Ha on the Orion OTA + Daystar Quantum
WL, G-Band & CaK Setup: Lunt Wedge & Lunt B1800CaK, Baader K-Line and Altair 2nm G-Band filter
ASI1600MM, ASI432MM, ASI294MM Pro, ASI174MM, ASI462MM
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Re: Coronado PST testing
Alexandra,
Sorry to hear you're having such trouble. Some PST's are very hard nuts to crack open, you may just have one of those. If there's anyone local to your country that has ripped a few open, you could reach out and have them do it maybe? There is a bond in the threads, heating up the pipe with a hair dryer and then using a strap-wrench should do the trick. Get it real hot. I've torn up a few PST's now and am comfortable opening them up. Some really are glued and require a lot of work to open them. I destroyed one to get the etalon (a good etalon, it was fine of course, but the brass tube and black box were junk so I didn't care about ripping them up).
Very best,
Sorry to hear you're having such trouble. Some PST's are very hard nuts to crack open, you may just have one of those. If there's anyone local to your country that has ripped a few open, you could reach out and have them do it maybe? There is a bond in the threads, heating up the pipe with a hair dryer and then using a strap-wrench should do the trick. Get it real hot. I've torn up a few PST's now and am comfortable opening them up. Some really are glued and require a lot of work to open them. I destroyed one to get the etalon (a good etalon, it was fine of course, but the brass tube and black box were junk so I didn't care about ripping them up).
Very best,
- pedro
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Re: Coronado PST testing
Hi Alexandra
I managed to dismantle a few (3) PSTs. Old models are easier to crack open. There is a strong Loctite glue in all of the threads. Try to apply some heat and using a strap-wrench should work. Best of luck
I managed to dismantle a few (3) PSTs. Old models are easier to crack open. There is a strong Loctite glue in all of the threads. Try to apply some heat and using a strap-wrench should work. Best of luck
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Pedro Re'
https://pedroreastrophotography.com/
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- marktownley
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Re: Coronado PST testing
If you've got the etalon turning 1 and 3/4 turns it will come undone; but will probably cost another boa or 2. I think i've bought 4, breaking 2 of them. Key to success will be to keep slackening off and then tightening the etalon housing back down, repeat ad infinitum, this will allow the etalon housing to unscrew slowly but surely. . This will move the flakey loctite around the threads - the same way as using a tap to put a thread in a piece of metal, as the threads come out of the housing if you can see any loctite in the threads scratch it out with a pin. What you're experiencing is perfectly normal for a PST mod with loctite threads.
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Re: Coronado PST testing
It has taken me 1 1/2 days to calm down.
How do you apply heat Pedro? my niece says I need at least 70 degrees C to soften loctite. I don't think my husband's shoulder can use a boa again. I am not willing to spend £10,000 on another shoulder rebuild.
Alexandra
How do you apply heat Pedro? my niece says I need at least 70 degrees C to soften loctite. I don't think my husband's shoulder can use a boa again. I am not willing to spend £10,000 on another shoulder rebuild.
Alexandra
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Re: Coronado PST testing
Use lots of pressure and a hair drier, it should work
best of luck
best of luck
Pedro Re'
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Re: Coronado PST testing
Thanks Pedro for the info, unfortunately I can only apply the heat, I don't have the lots of pressure.
Alexandra
Alexandra
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Re: Coronado PST testing
You need to make the lever longer on the boa - have you got a length of steel pipe / wheel brace arm, basically anything longer that can go over the boa handle and won't bend - will make it easier on Darrens shoulder.Montana wrote: ↑Mon Jan 06, 2020 10:12 am It has taken me 1 1/2 days to calm down.
How do you apply heat Pedro? my niece says I need at least 70 degrees C to soften loctite. I don't think my husband's shoulder can use a boa again. I am not willing to spend £10,000 on another shoulder rebuild.
Alexandra
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Re: Coronado PST testing
I am very pleased to announce that we disassembled the PST successfully this afternoon. No pain whatsoever. Done in 5 minutes. We bought another boa this morning from the local store. I think the local store will be thinking these boas sell like hot cakes as that is the third we have bought in as many weeks. We had left some WD40 in the joint all week so I don’t know if this helped or not. First, upon the advice from Apollo I completely cleaned the area with isopropanol to remove any grease or rubber from before. I then used a hairdryer (thanks Pedro) on the area for about 10 minutes warming it to quite hot. I know that my niece said I needed to get to 70 degrees to loosen locktite. Then while still hot I grabbed and the hubby swung, it cracked and undid as easy as anything. I have now cleaned everything with a pin and everything fits the AOK adaptor well. On Monday I will bring home some grease from work which we use on the microscopes and pipettes and reassemble the etalon housing. I didn’t bring it home as I didn’t think I would get it off. So very happy indeed.
Alexandra
Alexandra
- eroel
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Re: Coronado PST testing
Alexandra:
Nice to hear that you disassembled the PST with no problem, when I did do my CaK PST, I did heat the joint with a heat gun and it unscrewed easely.
Now starts the experimentation time.
Have a nice weekend.
Eric.
Nice to hear that you disassembled the PST with no problem, when I did do my CaK PST, I did heat the joint with a heat gun and it unscrewed easely.
Now starts the experimentation time.
Have a nice weekend.
Eric.
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Re: Coronado PST testing
Great news Alexandra
The revised disassembly paid off without aggravating Darren's shoulder!!!
Now I hope you get some sun to test the mod out.
Brian
The revised disassembly paid off without aggravating Darren's shoulder!!!
Now I hope you get some sun to test the mod out.
Brian
Brian Colville
Maple Ridge Observatory
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10'x15 Roll-off Roof Observatory
Takahashi EM400 Mount carrying:
C14 + Lunt 80ED
Deep Sky Work - ASI294MM Pro+EFW 7x36/Canon 60D (Ha mod), ONAG
Planetary Work - SBIG CFW10, ASI462MM
2.2m Diameter Dome
iOptron CEM70G Mount carrying:
Orion EON 130ED, f7 OTA for Day & Night Use
Ha Setup: Lunt LS80PT/LS75FHa/B1200Ha + Home Brew Lunt Double Stack/B1800Ha on the Orion OTA + Daystar Quantum
WL, G-Band & CaK Setup: Lunt Wedge & Lunt B1800CaK, Baader K-Line and Altair 2nm G-Band filter
ASI1600MM, ASI432MM, ASI294MM Pro, ASI174MM, ASI462MM
Maple Ridge Observatory
Cambray, ON Canada
Photos: https://www.flickr.com/photos/185395281@N08/albums
10'x15 Roll-off Roof Observatory
Takahashi EM400 Mount carrying:
C14 + Lunt 80ED
Deep Sky Work - ASI294MM Pro+EFW 7x36/Canon 60D (Ha mod), ONAG
Planetary Work - SBIG CFW10, ASI462MM
2.2m Diameter Dome
iOptron CEM70G Mount carrying:
Orion EON 130ED, f7 OTA for Day & Night Use
Ha Setup: Lunt LS80PT/LS75FHa/B1200Ha + Home Brew Lunt Double Stack/B1800Ha on the Orion OTA + Daystar Quantum
WL, G-Band & CaK Setup: Lunt Wedge & Lunt B1800CaK, Baader K-Line and Altair 2nm G-Band filter
ASI1600MM, ASI432MM, ASI294MM Pro, ASI174MM, ASI462MM
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Re: Coronado PST testing
Good stuff! Crack the other one next
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