Re: Lunt LS60MT and Double Stack
Unread post by SimonM » Mon Oct 25, 2021 8:40 pm
EGRAY_OBSERVATORY wrote: ↑Thu Oct 21, 2021 11:27 pm
Nice one Simon on the discarded LS300T eh ?? Not sure if they make bin-bags that big !! ha ha
" I have been taking a 50L swing bin liner out with the scope. This morning I covered the scope and popped inside. Weather changed and there was a hint of rain - had to bring it all inside quickly. A few spots of rain on the mount wipe off, but the bin liner helps protect the little scope. A real bin bag would probably be best and bigger - so good advice earlier - thanks. "
I've just realised Simon, that to actually turn one of those "Wheelie Bins" upside-down would make an even better protection from the elements !!!
(remember to remove rubbish and clean bin first though)...
Ooooh Aaaaah !!!
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I do agree that if money and mount allows for more than one scope to be attached-together, saves much time, effort and avoid wear and tear, plus possible damage too... Three scopes are on my main-observatory mount, which are a joy to use and also all three are connected via a 4-way USB-3 port to the USB-3 computer and via SharpCap at least can simply be switched to whichever camera one wants to download from.
I seem to remember also that to run more than one SharpCap program at the same time can also be done for each camera, but whether that slows things down, I can't recall.
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viewtopic.php?f=4&t=33747 has been published regarding "My New Mini-observatory" on 23-10-2021.
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I haven't as yet tried mounting the ASI-178Mm directly to the Lunt B1200 BF's, so interesting comment - thanks and must try that...
I have used the excellent TeleVue Sol Searchers at public outreach's and are excellent, but have other types on my own scopes.
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Interesting comments re using an iPhone for compass-bearings and even being affected by closeness to scope and mount/tripod.
One method previously advised to others for aligning a mount, was to get it correct (say at night with Polaris) and mark the ground using some desired-method and possibly lay small concrete pads or similar. Also make a note and use of any land-mark that is in the north/360-degs. from that good-tripod position for future use.
Bearing in mind that the exact True/Magnetic North location does not have to be too-precise for Solar use and especially for the short-time-exposures required.
True that the more accurately aligned the better, but trial and error often suffice - as long as one can quickly get back to the accurate locations explained here.
ps I only possess magnetic-compasses and no iPhone, but the Vixen GP-DX mount position in the new mini-observatory was purely worked-out by guess-work from my knowledge of the location and quite pleased that on first-light to the Sun, the scope was only off by around 1-degree, which was quickly corrected by the mounts' Slew Device...
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Yes using whatever is available for shading from the brightness (heat when necessary) is needed. I made-up a largish black-cloth for that, but normally now the Lunt Solar Hat does the biz very well...
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Of course once you've got the hang of Single-Stack use is the better-way before going DS, which we here have seen so often causing the user's of DS to become confused or suggest that the gear is not working properly. In most (if not all) case with Lunt systems - it is simply getting the tuning of the SS first correct and then when adding the DS, to only adjust that to bring the contrast for surface detail better than the SS on its' own.
The loss of some prominence detail may-well occur, but that is quite normal and interestingly my first (for a very long-time) DS images published yesterday/24th show that the Ha+DS image can show proms quite well too - by adjusting the exposure times upwards... (My Ha surface FD, was not perfectly adjusted for the DS as slightly off-band in the eastern-half, so a little tweaking required on my next occasion)...
Slow and careful small-adjustment backward and forward of a DS and even the SS too, can allow an even better image for what one wishes to see/image...
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Without question, the only way to accurately focus on the Sun, is using the Limb-edge against the blackness, as anything-else is always moving and /or useless for fine-focusing. In fact I rarely have to adjust my focusing between sessions, but with the large computer display-monitors - I will use SharpCAp with its' magnifying-percentage to look much more closely to that Limb-edge...
Obviously changing EP's / Camera's will require re-focusing often...
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To repeat, set and tune the SS first. After adding the DS, basically only adjust the DS and around either-side of any "sweet-spot" keeping an eye/screen-view of the overall view of the Solar-Disk for balance of illumination (or uneven of) and if required just slight adjustments only are likely to be required.
Can be awkward with "eye-adaption" taking time to either use E.P.'s or even the pc-screen to see the effects, but practice makes perfect with the help of Sun-screens of one type or another.
ps I don't use Pressure-Tuning systems and cannot vouch for each PT accuracy for whatever reason, but archive items on SolarChat have shown some suggestions as to their use-of and any maintenance/parts required from Lunt.
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So as you lastly say, that advice about trialling the SS first until completely used to all it can and will offer - is the way-forward.
Adding the DS likens itself to the difference between "A key into a Mortice-Lock" for SS use and trying to open a two or three coded Combination-Lock for DS purposes (without actually knowing the correct code order)...!!!
But once sorted, the surface-detail of the Sun's disk quickly shows filaments and other faculae much better than SS can do...
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Best Wishes Simon and you've made a start and can only get better with practice.
Terry