First light, open frame refractor 04-12-22

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First light, open frame refractor 04-12-22

Post by Martin_S »

We had a windy cloudy day here in Brisbane, but it didn't deter me from testing my new build. I took some white light images while my quark was warming up, using my homemade solar wedge. I then moved on to H alpha, testing my two cameras ASI174mm and ASI290mm.
All of my results were good considering the weather conditions.
The most noticeable points were, very little wind buffeting of the telescope, no more air convection as the tube is now open, and a massive improvement in glare reduction when imaging prominences as the energy reflection filters are placed away from the telecentric focal extender (TZ4).

Here are my first light images.
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H alpha : ,Skywatcher 120mm F8 open frame refractor, a tilted 2" 7nm H-alpha filter as a sub energy rejection filter, Baader TZ4 telecentric focal extender, Player One energy rejection filter, Combo Quark Chromosphere, Naked PST etalon for double stacking, ASI74mm camera
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Re: First light, open frame refractor 04-12-22

Post by Peterm »

Hi Martin,
That scope looks amazing, you have really put some effort into that and have been rewarded by the results you have presented. Wonderful imaging considering the conditions in SEQLD today. I especially like the 3rd color one, so much going on there! The proms are huge and detailed. Bravo!

Peter


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Re: First light, open frame refractor 04-12-22

Post by Martin_S »

Thanks Peter, we really copped some awful weather in the South East this week.


H alpha : ,Skywatcher 120mm F8 open frame refractor, a tilted 2" 7nm H-alpha filter as a sub energy rejection filter, Baader TZ4 telecentric focal extender, Player One energy rejection filter, Combo Quark Chromosphere, Naked PST etalon for double stacking, ASI74mm camera
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Re: First light, open frame refractor 04-12-22

Post by rigel123 »

Awesome setup Martin! Pics look great. Glad you caught that really faint, floating prom!


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Re: First light, open frame refractor 04-12-22

Post by ffellah »

Love your new setup ! The results are excellent and very detailed, Martin. Very well done and promising for future imaging.

Franco


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Re: First light, open frame refractor 04-12-22

Post by arnedanielsen »

Wonderful scope and images Martin!

Thanks for sharing,
Arne


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Re: First light, open frame refractor 04-12-22

Post by pupak »

Very nice work and nice pictures. Congratulation.


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Re: First light, open frame refractor 04-12-22

Post by eroel »

Martin:
Beautiful work and setup scope.
Best regards.
Eric.


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Re: First light, open frame refractor 04-12-22

Post by Bill_C »

Great modification and wonderful visual results

Bill


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Re: First light, open frame refractor 04-12-22

Post by DeepSolar64 »

Martin,
These are incredible and show nice detail. That's a GREAT first light session for the rebuild. Did you have any trouble getting the objective collimated?

James


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Re: First light, open frame refractor 04-12-22

Post by Martin_S »

Thanks everyone for your comments, James, I haven't checked the collimation yet. Everything was machined to precise dimensions and the flanges were set up spot on. I'm waiting for some special nuts to arrive on a slow boat from China, to finish this project off. then I'll check the collimation.
Last edited by Martin_S on Sun Dec 04, 2022 6:57 pm, edited 1 time in total.


H alpha : ,Skywatcher 120mm F8 open frame refractor, a tilted 2" 7nm H-alpha filter as a sub energy rejection filter, Baader TZ4 telecentric focal extender, Player One energy rejection filter, Combo Quark Chromosphere, Naked PST etalon for double stacking, ASI74mm camera
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Re: First light, open frame refractor 04-12-22

Post by DeepSolar64 »

It couldn't be off much, if any. The images look good!!


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Re: First light, open frame refractor 04-12-22

Post by Martin_S »

Thanks Aaron.


H alpha : ,Skywatcher 120mm F8 open frame refractor, a tilted 2" 7nm H-alpha filter as a sub energy rejection filter, Baader TZ4 telecentric focal extender, Player One energy rejection filter, Combo Quark Chromosphere, Naked PST etalon for double stacking, ASI74mm camera
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Re: First light, open frame refractor 04-12-22

Post by rsfoto »

Hi Martin,

Beautiful results. I am now thinking in cutting some holes into the tube of my Takahashi FSQ 85 as well as the Takahashi FS-78 in order to not have the warm up time and possible warm air convection inside the tubes. Would it work ? :?:

Just kidding, ... but great to see how DIY telescopes do perfectly work. At the moment developing some new cooling ideas for round cameras like an ASI 120MM or an ASI 178MM, etc. which just have cooling ribs around the body but no forced air convection.

Have you measured how much does that magnetic phone cooler reduce the temperature of the camera ? I have seen that even the non cooled cameras like mentioned above do have a built in temperature sensor.

Well done.


regards Rainer

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Re: First light, open frame refractor 04-12-22

Post by DeepSolar64 »

Rainer,
Even the idea of cutting into a Takahashi tube makes me cringe and sweat and I don't even own one!

James


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Re: First light, open frame refractor 04-12-22

Post by MapleRidge »

Great to hear your new build is working nicely and the images certainly show it too :bow

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Re: First light, open frame refractor 04-12-22

Post by Rusted »

Congratulations on your OTA build and excellent images.


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Re: First light, open frame refractor 04-12-22

Post by MAURITS »

That's a great setup and wonderful images Martin.


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Re: First light, open frame refractor 04-12-22

Post by marktownley »

Very impressive MArtin, looks to be working to me.


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Re: First light, open frame refractor 04-12-22

Post by Montana »

Well done Martin, that is a fine achievement and lovely results too :hamster: :bow

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Re: First light, open frame refractor 04-12-22

Post by Martin_S »

rsfoto wrote: Mon Dec 05, 2022 2:57 pm Hi Martin,

Beautiful results. I am now thinking in cutting some holes into the tube of my Takahashi FSQ 85 as well as the Takahashi FS-78 in order to not have the warm up time and possible warm air convection inside the tubes. Would it work ? :?:

Just kidding, ... but great to see how DIY telescopes do perfectly work. At the moment developing some new cooling ideas for round cameras like an ASI 120MM or an ASI 178MM, etc. which just have cooling ribs around the body but no forced air convection.

Have you measured how much does that magnetic phone cooler reduce the temperature of the camera ? I have seen that even the non cooled cameras like mentioned above do have a built in temperature sensor.

Well done.
Hi Rainer, I was not happy with the magnetic pad as the magnet in the cooler was lifting it from the camera, I could see a fine slither of daylight underneath the pad so I have now made a more stable connection and have some thermal pads on order. This will increase the contact areas by about 20% and the aluminium plate should dissipate more heat from the camera casing. I'll keep you posted when I get some results.
20221206_180439.jpg
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H alpha : ,Skywatcher 120mm F8 open frame refractor, a tilted 2" 7nm H-alpha filter as a sub energy rejection filter, Baader TZ4 telecentric focal extender, Player One energy rejection filter, Combo Quark Chromosphere, Naked PST etalon for double stacking, ASI74mm camera
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Re: First light, open frame refractor 04-12-22

Post by Martin_S »

Thanks everyone for your comments, the open tube really makes a big improvement if you have a larger aperture telescope and a hot climate.


H alpha : ,Skywatcher 120mm F8 open frame refractor, a tilted 2" 7nm H-alpha filter as a sub energy rejection filter, Baader TZ4 telecentric focal extender, Player One energy rejection filter, Combo Quark Chromosphere, Naked PST etalon for double stacking, ASI74mm camera
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Re: First light, open frame refractor 04-12-22

Post by DeepSolar64 »

Though I consider a 120mm refractor a medium-sized refactor it's certainly big enough to benefit from an open frame design. I envy your skills Martin :mrgreen: Someone should offer refractors above 100mm in aperture with an open framework design commercially. The bigger the refractor the more benefit it would have. I think the reason it hasn't is most refractors are more bought for nighttime use where dew is more of a problem and the seeing at night is typically better than that of the day. Us solar people are still just a niche in the amateur astronomy pie.

James


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Losmandy AZ8 Alt/Az Mount
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Re: First light, open frame refractor 04-12-22

Post by rsfoto »

Hi Martin,

What you need in that big aluminum block you have carved are ribs and ribs is surface where air can take away the heat from the metal.


regards Rainer

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Re: First light, open frame refractor 04-12-22

Post by Rusted »

rsfoto wrote: Tue Dec 06, 2022 4:38 pm Hi Martin,

What you need in that big aluminum block you have carved are ribs and ribs is surface where air can take away the heat from the metal.
Are you thinking of ribs like an air-cooled motorcycle?
Wouldn't that require a forced airflow to offer increased cooling?
Radial fins could have an external [tubular] cowl to take advantage of a larger fan.
A slitting saw in a mill would cut them.
Or the disk mounted on a pivot on the top slide, or milling attachment, in the lathe with dividing disk or head.

Using wood/plywood instead of metal in a skeletal solar refractor might be more thermally neutral.
With suitable design it could be as stiff as metal.
Fortunately the objective tends to cast a solid shadow on the relatively massive baffles involved here.
The light cone should avoid hitting the baffles. To avoid warming them with the focused beam.
Painting the baffles black should only be done on the rear side. To avoid heating effects as much as possible.
Polished aluminium has high reflectivity.

PS. None of my suggestions should be thought of as criticism of this fine project. I am just thinking aloud. ;)


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H-alpha: Baader 160mm D-ERF, iStar 150/10 H-alpha objective, 2" Baader 35nm H-a, 2" Beloptik KG3,
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Re: First light, open frame refractor 04-12-22

Post by Rusted »

Rusted wrote: Tue Dec 06, 2022 5:22 pm
rsfoto wrote: Tue Dec 06, 2022 4:38 pm Hi Martin,

What you need in that big aluminum block you have carved are ribs and ribs is surface where air can take away the heat from the metal.
Are you thinking of ribs like an air-cooled motorcycle?
Wouldn't that require a forced airflow to offer increased cooling?
Radial fins could have an external [tubular] cowl to take advantage of a larger fan.
A slitting saw in a mill would cut them.
Or the disk mounted on a pivot on the top slide, or milling attachment, in the lathe with dividing disk or head.

Using wood/plywood instead of metal in a skeletal solar refractor might be more thermally neutral.
With suitable design it could be as stiff as metal.

Fortunately the objective tends to cast a solid shadow on the relatively massive baffles involved here.
The light cone should avoid hitting the baffles. To avoid warming them with the focused beam.

Painting the baffles black should only be done on the rear side. To avoid heating effects as much as possible.
Polished aluminium has high reflectivity.

PS. None of my suggestions should be thought of as criticism of this fine project. I am just thinking aloud. ;)


http://fullerscopes.blogspot.dk/

H-alpha: Baader 160mm D-ERF, iStar 150/10 H-alpha objective, 2" Baader 35nm H-a, 2" Beloptik KG3,
Lunt 60MT etalon, Lunt B1200S2 BF, Assorted T-S GPCs or 2x "Shorty" Barlow, ZWO ASI174.
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Re: First light, open frame refractor 04-12-22

Post by rsfoto »

Rusted wrote: Tue Dec 06, 2022 5:22 pm
rsfoto wrote: Tue Dec 06, 2022 4:38 pm Hi Martin,

What you need in that big aluminum block you have carved are ribs and ribs is surface where air can take away the heat from the metal.
Are you thinking of ribs like an air-cooled motorcycle?
Wouldn't that require a forced airflow to offer increased cooling?
Radial fins could have an external [tubular] cowl to take advantage of a larger fan.
A slitting saw in a mill would cut them.
Or the disk mounted on a pivot on the top slide, or milling attachment, in the lathe with dividing disk or head.

Using wood/plywood instead of metal in a skeletal solar refractor might be more thermally neutral.
With suitable design it could be as stiff as metal.
Fortunately the objective tends to cast a solid shadow on the relatively massive baffles involved here.
The light cone should avoid hitting the baffles. To avoid warming them with the focused beam.
Painting the baffles black should only be done on the rear side. To avoid heating effects as much as possible.
Polished aluminium has high reflectivity.

PS. None of my suggestions should be thought of as criticism of this fine project. I am just thinking aloud. ;)
Hi Chris,

Yes, but even so some air flow is always there and we are not alking about heat amunt in terms of a engine.

Look at the ribs the camera has. The question here is, is it just an optical make it nicer or do they really help to cool the camera.

I just designed a manifold which would go over the end of the camera with a 50mm fan on it which would take advantage of the factory ribs (grey drawing) and I just started printing the first prototype.

The other cooling aid I just finished yesterday look like in the images. The heat sink is 40x40mm and then one could even sandwich a TEC inbetween the heat sink and the camera body.

ASI_Round_Cool_v1.jpg
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ASI_Round_Cool_1.jpg
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ASI_Round_Cool_2.jpg
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ASI_Round_Cool_3.jpg
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ASI_Round_Cool_4.jpg
ASI_Round_Cool_4.jpg (338.18 KiB) Viewed 574 times


regards Rainer

Observatorio Real de 14
San Luis Potosi Mexico

North 22° West 101°
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Re: First light, open frame refractor 04-12-22

Post by Martin_S »

rsfoto wrote: Tue Dec 06, 2022 4:38 pm Hi Martin,

What you need in that big aluminum block you have carved are ribs and ribs is surface where air can take away the heat from the metal.
Good point Rainer, another cloudy day project is pending :)


H alpha : ,Skywatcher 120mm F8 open frame refractor, a tilted 2" 7nm H-alpha filter as a sub energy rejection filter, Baader TZ4 telecentric focal extender, Player One energy rejection filter, Combo Quark Chromosphere, Naked PST etalon for double stacking, ASI74mm camera
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Re: First light, open frame refractor 04-12-22

Post by rsfoto »

Hi Martin,

Just running a cooling test on that tiny camera after applying a thermal pad 0.5mm thick.

ROI 320x240 at a speed of 173 frames per second. Temperature of sensor according to sharpcap ~30°C cooler not active.

After connecting the cooler the temperature went down to ~25°C at an ambient temprature in my room of about ~20°C.

Was it worth ? I do not know ...


BTW the heat sink has 111 ribs and that gives a surface of about 154cm² :mrgreen:


regards Rainer

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Re: First light, open frame refractor 04-12-22

Post by Rusted »

It's not fair! :o

Rainer is using alien technology! :mrgreen:

ASI_Round_Cool_3 rainer rsz crop 500.jpg
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Re: First light, open frame refractor 04-12-22

Post by Averton »

Very nice work Martin.
We'll also be interested to hear the outcome of your camera cooling.


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Re: First light, open frame refractor 04-12-22

Post by DeepSolar64 »

I think of the heat sink cooling fins on the top of outdoor LED fixtures that we assemble at work.

:mrgreen: Rainer IS an alien!! :lol: An alien engineer!


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Re: First light, open frame refractor 04-12-22

Post by Martin_S »

Rusted wrote: Tue Dec 06, 2022 5:22 pm
rsfoto wrote: Tue Dec 06, 2022 4:38 pm Hi Martin,

What you need in that big aluminum block you have carved are ribs and ribs is surface where air can take away the heat from the metal.
Are you thinking of ribs like an air-cooled motorcycle?
Wouldn't that require a forced airflow to offer increased cooling?
Radial fins could have an external [tubular] cowl to take advantage of a larger fan.
A slitting saw in a mill would cut them.
Or the disk mounted on a pivot on the top slide, or milling attachment, in the lathe with dividing disk or head.

Using wood/plywood instead of metal in a skeletal solar refractor might be more thermally neutral.
With suitable design it could be as stiff as metal.
Fortunately the objective tends to cast a solid shadow on the relatively massive baffles involved here.
The light cone should avoid hitting the baffles. To avoid warming them with the focused beam.
Painting the baffles black should only be done on the rear side. To avoid heating effects as much as possible.
Polished aluminium has high reflectivity.

PS. None of my suggestions should be thought of as criticism of this fine project. I am just thinking aloud. ;)
Rusted, you have raised some great points regarding alternatives to an Aluminum construction. Anti reflection felt on the rear of the center baffle is on my to do list.

:D

Martin


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Re: First light, open frame refractor 04-12-22

Post by Martin_S »

Averton wrote: Wed Dec 07, 2022 10:39 am Very nice work Martin.
We'll also be interested to hear the outcome of your camera cooling.
Hi Clare and Peter , yesterday I compared the phone cooler with my old home made Peltier cooler.

Here are the results with my ASI174mm camera

Ambient patio temperature, with no breeze 28 degrees Celsius.

The phone cooler maintained the chip temperature at 42 degrees Celsius over a 30 minute period,

My old home made Peltier cooler brought the Chip temperature down from 42 decrees Celsius to 39 decrees Celsius.

If I don't use cooling the chip temperature will rise to around 50 degrees Celsius in the summer heat.

I have some more magnetic pads on order and will be testing the magnetic phone cooler again when they arrive, as less metal between the cooling module and the camera body might be more effective in dissipating heat from the camera casing.

Martin


H alpha : ,Skywatcher 120mm F8 open frame refractor, a tilted 2" 7nm H-alpha filter as a sub energy rejection filter, Baader TZ4 telecentric focal extender, Player One energy rejection filter, Combo Quark Chromosphere, Naked PST etalon for double stacking, ASI74mm camera
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Re: First light, open frame refractor 04-12-22

Post by Martin_S »

rsfoto wrote: Tue Dec 06, 2022 9:37 pm Hi Martin,

Just running a cooling test on that tiny camera after applying a thermal pad 0.5mm thick.

ROI 320x240 at a speed of 173 frames per second. Temperature of sensor according to sharpcap ~30°C cooler not active.

After connecting the cooler the temperature went down to ~25°C at an ambient temprature in my room of about ~20°C.

Was it worth ? I do not know ...


BTW the heat sink has 111 ribs and that gives a surface of about 154cm² :mrgreen:
Hi Rainer, thanks for your test results I will have to test my home made cooler at room temperature and compare the results.

Martin


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Re: First light, open frame refractor 04-12-22

Post by Rusted »

Martin_S wrote: Wed Dec 07, 2022 7:38 pm
Rusted, you have raised some great points regarding alternatives to an Aluminum construction.
Anti reflection felt on the rear of the center baffle is on my to do list.

:D

Martin

Careful Martin. OCD is highly contagious! :D


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Re: First light, open frame refractor 04-12-22

Post by Martin_S »

Rusted wrote: Wed Dec 07, 2022 8:25 pm
Martin_S wrote: Wed Dec 07, 2022 7:38 pm
Rusted, you have raised some great points regarding alternatives to an Aluminum construction.
Anti reflection felt on the rear of the center baffle is on my to do list.

:D

Martin

Careful Martin. OCD is highly contagious! :D
That's why I don't play golf :D


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Re: First light, open frame refractor 04-12-22

Post by rsfoto »

Martin_S wrote: Wed Dec 07, 2022 8:18 pm
Averton wrote: Wed Dec 07, 2022 10:39 am Very nice work Martin.
We'll also be interested to hear the outcome of your camera cooling.
Hi Clare and Peter , yesterday I compared the phone cooler with my old home made Peltier cooler.

Here are the results with my ASI174mm camera

Ambient patio temperature, with no breeze 28 degrees Celsius.

The phone cooler maintained the chip temperature at 42 degrees Celsius over a 30 minute period,

My old home made Peltier cooler brought the Chip temperature down from 42 decrees Celsius to 39 decrees Celsius.

If I don't use cooling the chip temperature will rise to around 50 degrees Celsius in the summer heat.

I have some more magnetic pads on order and will be testing the magnetic phone cooler again when they arrive, as less metal between the cooling module and the camera body might be more effective in dissipating heat from the camera casing.

Martin

Hi Martin,

Are you sure to spend more money on magnetic pads instead of getting a heat sink and a 12V fan ?

I doubt thephone coolers vibrate less then the normal fans.

Your camera gets quite hot compared to my ASI 120MM.

I am redesigning the cooler shown here for use with a 50mm fan.

Do you also print 3D ?
Last edited by rsfoto on Thu Dec 08, 2022 2:59 pm, edited 1 time in total.


regards Rainer

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Re: First light, open frame refractor 04-12-22

Post by Martin_S »

Rainer, you might find this page interesting regarding Player One active coolers for planetary cameras.

https://player-one-astronomy.com/produc ... d-cameras/

They state a reading of about 7 degrees Celsius above ambient for active cooled camera.

I tested my phone cooler with larger thermal pads with my large plate mount and got a constant chip temperature reading of 10 degrees above ambient which at the time of testing was 28 degrees.
I am working on better heat transfer options, your suggestion of fins on the mounting plate could be on the cards.

I don't print 3D.

Thank you for your input and suggestions.

Martin


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Re: First light, open frame refractor 04-12-22

Post by Averton »

Martin_S wrote: Wed Dec 07, 2022 8:18 pm
Averton wrote: Wed Dec 07, 2022 10:39 am Very nice work Martin.
We'll also be interested to hear the outcome of your camera cooling.
Hi Clare and Peter , yesterday I compared the phone cooler with my old home made Peltier cooler.

Here are the results with my ASI174mm camera

Ambient patio temperature, with no breeze 28 degrees Celsius.

The phone cooler maintained the chip temperature at 42 degrees Celsius over a 30 minute period,

My old home made Peltier cooler brought the Chip temperature down from 42 decrees Celsius to 39 decrees Celsius.

If I don't use cooling the chip temperature will rise to around 50 degrees Celsius in the summer heat.

I have some more magnetic pads on order and will be testing the magnetic phone cooler again when they arrive, as less metal between the cooling module and the camera body might be more effective in dissipating heat from the camera casing.

Martin
Thanks Martin.
After seeing your camera cooler nearly two months ago, we made a cooler of our own for our 178MM camera.
IMG_5252 small.JPG
IMG_5252 small.JPG (175.17 KiB) Viewed 474 times
It is definitely very effective in reducing the sensor temperature by about 10 degrees from ambient. We have found that the 178MM runs about 10C cooler than the 174MM and both cameras cool down considerably when taking still images (for flats) compared to taking video. We have been hesitant to report back without having collected a good amount of testing data so over the last month or so we have been imaging with the fan on and the fan off. Even though, as is evident in the picture, we made rubber mounting for the fan, we can definitely report that vibration in the images is an issue. The negative results can be easily seen in the images on occasion but the AS!3 quality figure is reduced in the fan on images. The degree of visual impact is variable and thus far we have not determined the reason for this but some possibilities are the orientation of the fan rotational axis, the over hang of the optical train past the focuser being influenced by orientation (we don't have a stabilising bar going back toward the camera as in your set up - something to consider) ... there will be others.
Interestingly on page 35 of the Australian Sky & Telescope magazine Jan/Feb 2023 issue, there is an ad for a Player One add on fan for their high speed cameras. https://player-one-astronomy.com/produc ... d-cameras/
This ad mentions magnetic levitation bearing fans which lead us down another interesting rabbit hole.
First of all we found this fan that claims magnetic levitation bearings from Altronics.
https://www.altronics.com.au/p/f0010a-s ... aring-fan/
Then we found a claimed to be superior fan from Scorptec
https://www.scorptec.com.au/product/coo ... gJxd_D_BwE
Then confirmation that there is real issues with fan vibration and imaging came in a DSO forum
https://www.cloudynights.com/topic/7656 ... nt-thread/
This thread is very interesting and basically mentions the two fans we had already found plus another one called Fractal Design.
These have all been tried as replacement fans in pro-cooled cameras but at high focal ratios don't seem to be 100% effective at solving the vibration issue. The person who started the thread eventually wrapped around 250g of lead flashing around the end of the camera (pro-cooled probably a 410g camera) to help absorb the vibration. Our pro-cooled camera is four times the weight of our mono solar cameras so the chances of absorbing vibration doesn't look good.
We are now testing the camera with just the peltier and heat sink attached which obviously solves the vibration issue and our images have improved but the cooling now only reduces the sensor temperature by 5 degrees. The heat sink gets quite hot (yet to measure the temperature) but probably around 50C. We are now looking for a better heat sink.


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Re: First light, open frame refractor 04-12-22

Post by DeepSolar64 »

Does cooling a camera make much difference in solar imaging? I can see it, especially in the summer months being used.


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Re: First light, open frame refractor 04-12-22

Post by Averton »

DeepSolar64 wrote: Thu Dec 08, 2022 6:36 am Does cooling a camera make much difference in solar imaging? I can see it, especially in the summer months being used.
Hi Lames,
It is not for camera performance like in DSO imageing it is for camera survival.
50C is about the upper end of the spec for many of the electronic components.
In summer here it is not too hard to get 50C in the camera :(


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Re: First light, open frame refractor 04-12-22

Post by Rusted »

It seems too obvious to suggest that the fan can be switched off during the relatively short video captures we normally use.
Then switched back on afterwards to return to active cooling.

Water cooling should be vibration free but I know almost nothing on this subject so far.

Extensions to support the cantilevered camera and long filter stack [probably] ought to have been adopted as standard by now.
Not least for collimation purposes to kill the inevitable sag. Slight difficulties arise from OTA rotation on our equatorial mountings.


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Re: First light, open frame refractor 04-12-22

Post by DeepSolar64 »

My PGR Grasshopper gets really hot in the summer when the temperature outside exceeds 28C.


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Re: First light, open frame refractor 04-12-22

Post by Averton »

Rusted wrote: Thu Dec 08, 2022 6:52 am It seems too obvious to suggest that the fan can be switched off during the relatively short video captures we normally use.
Then switched back on afterwards to return to active cooling.

Water cooling should be vibration free but I know almost nothing on this subject so far.

Extensions to support the cantilevered camera and long filter stack [probably] ought to have been adopted as standard by now.
Not least for collimation purposes to kill the inevitable sag. Slight difficulties arise from OTA rotation on our equatorial mountings.
Yes, it is quite feasible to manually turn off the cooling when taking a video, but if you are doing batch captures for an animation over an hour or more, you really need the software to turn on and off the cooling. Presently this is not offered.


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Re: First light, open frame refractor 04-12-22

Post by rsfoto »

Hi,

Honestly speaking vibration interference is overrated ...

Just because one single guy on Cloudynights, the biggest Astronomy Gossip forum :lol: :lol: :lol: , thought to have problems with vibrations, now everybody gets paranoid about vibration ...

Do you really think the camera producers care about the fans they install ?

Look at the ridiculous adding of the rubber washers on the ZWO cameras which exactly do nothing about vibration reduction ...

Now Chris aka Rusted here mentioned a much more serious problem which is how the air flows ...

I have been doing a lot lately about cooling and have to say more important is air flow contention or direction or whatever word is correct.

I am going to revive my vibration sensor and look at some fans I have here or maybe I should take more time making Sun images and at night pretty pictures :mrgreen:


regards Rainer

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