Daystar DS 60
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Re: Daystar DS 60
That’s a great image.
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Re: Daystar DS 60
Thanks Stu
It seems to me to be the lowest priced way to get reliable H alpha views.
It also seems the SS60-ds is limited by the objective and not the Quark unit.
The Quark unit is easily detachable as I found on the first scope that was sent to me, the scope was almost in two halves, it just has a simple unique fitting so needs an adapter machining for it.
I think Daystar could make a killing if they could produce the Quark unit in a 2" fit for around £500, especially if they all perform like this one.
Nice thing is if I go on my hols I can just put the quark back in the 60mm and take it with me.
The major thing for me that beats the PST is it works fine with a binocular head because of the telecentric beam.
The picture is of the Quark unit, it is held to the scope by four nylon tipped grub screws that allow you to rotate it, very simple.
I can't understand why it is not more popular.
Cheers Rod
It seems to me to be the lowest priced way to get reliable H alpha views.
It also seems the SS60-ds is limited by the objective and not the Quark unit.
The Quark unit is easily detachable as I found on the first scope that was sent to me, the scope was almost in two halves, it just has a simple unique fitting so needs an adapter machining for it.
I think Daystar could make a killing if they could produce the Quark unit in a 2" fit for around £500, especially if they all perform like this one.
Nice thing is if I go on my hols I can just put the quark back in the 60mm and take it with me.
The major thing for me that beats the PST is it works fine with a binocular head because of the telecentric beam.
The picture is of the Quark unit, it is held to the scope by four nylon tipped grub screws that allow you to rotate it, very simple.
I can't understand why it is not more popular.
Cheers Rod
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Re: Daystar DS 60
Think it has a smaller etalon than the Quark if memory serves. You're lucky to have got a good one Rod, the problem to me seems to be with the Daystar products is the variability in image quality they produce.
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Re: Daystar DS 60
Hi Mark
I agree with the variability, I haven't taken the Quark part apart so dont know if the etalon is smaller or just has some edge problems as it looks like it may be the same etalons but just masked off to hide this and therefore cheaper.
It does have the zonal dark light areas that most etalons have but hardly noticeable visually, just shows up when processing, I need to get into a good method of doing flats.
This is a pic I took yesterday in pretty bad hazy seeing with a cheap 0.5 reducer onto the Opticstar 1/2" chip it shows the etalon is big enough for imaging.
My quality is limited by the camera that is only able to take around 250 frames before it has download problems and the file won't open.
I agree with the variability, I haven't taken the Quark part apart so dont know if the etalon is smaller or just has some edge problems as it looks like it may be the same etalons but just masked off to hide this and therefore cheaper.
It does have the zonal dark light areas that most etalons have but hardly noticeable visually, just shows up when processing, I need to get into a good method of doing flats.
This is a pic I took yesterday in pretty bad hazy seeing with a cheap 0.5 reducer onto the Opticstar 1/2" chip it shows the etalon is big enough for imaging.
My quality is limited by the camera that is only able to take around 250 frames before it has download problems and the file won't open.
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Re: Daystar DS 60
Hi
This picture shows the same thin metal stop at the eyepiece end with just a smaller hole.
It does make me think in the Quark philosophy that It may just be a standard etalon with problems around its edge but is perfectly usable in this format of the ss60-ds.
It maybe though that once removed and used on other scopes you may find other problems in some of the units around the edge of field.
Rod
This picture shows the same thin metal stop at the eyepiece end with just a smaller hole.
It does make me think in the Quark philosophy that It may just be a standard etalon with problems around its edge but is perfectly usable in this format of the ss60-ds.
It maybe though that once removed and used on other scopes you may find other problems in some of the units around the edge of field.
Rod
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Re: Daystar DS 60
Looks like the solar scout etalon diameter is 16mm http://www.daystarfilters.com/Scout/60Scout.shtml and the Quark has a 21mm etalon diameter. http://www.daystarfilters.com/Quark.shtml
Guess you get more solar scout etalons out of a given peice of mica than a quark etalon, which will make them cheaper, also, like you say increases the possibilities of getting more etalons out of a less uniform piece of mica.
Only downside is reduced etalon size increases vignetting with larger chips and larger field stop (longer focal length) eyepieces.
It is a lot of scope for the money if you get a good one, and the images from yours look spot on to me Rod.
Guess you get more solar scout etalons out of a given peice of mica than a quark etalon, which will make them cheaper, also, like you say increases the possibilities of getting more etalons out of a less uniform piece of mica.
Only downside is reduced etalon size increases vignetting with larger chips and larger field stop (longer focal length) eyepieces.
It is a lot of scope for the money if you get a good one, and the images from yours look spot on to me Rod.
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Re: Daystar DS 60
Hi Mark
That makes sense, when I take the etalon unit off the telecentric I will try and confirm that.
As the seeing was so bad today I had a go at seeing if I could get the whole sun on my 1/2" chip, no, you need a focal reducer.
What I did find though is I could get no better a raw image than atlguy who started this thread, this leads me back to the f4 objective not being that good.
On my 6" f16 I use a Pixco camera focal reducer it has the advantage of leaving the focal point at the same position unlike astronomy ones where you need more in focus. They are also made to fill a APS-C chip with little vignetting.
This leads me to a question for everyone with quarks, if I spend the money on a Quark combo am I likely to get a worse unit than the one I already have seeing the quarks are quite variable?
The only advantage I would get is a wider field of view (that is impossible on my Zeiss binocular head though) and the removal of the focal reducer.
Or would I get more benefit from a better camera?
That makes sense, when I take the etalon unit off the telecentric I will try and confirm that.
As the seeing was so bad today I had a go at seeing if I could get the whole sun on my 1/2" chip, no, you need a focal reducer.
What I did find though is I could get no better a raw image than atlguy who started this thread, this leads me back to the f4 objective not being that good.
On my 6" f16 I use a Pixco camera focal reducer it has the advantage of leaving the focal point at the same position unlike astronomy ones where you need more in focus. They are also made to fill a APS-C chip with little vignetting.
This leads me to a question for everyone with quarks, if I spend the money on a Quark combo am I likely to get a worse unit than the one I already have seeing the quarks are quite variable?
The only advantage I would get is a wider field of view (that is impossible on my Zeiss binocular head though) and the removal of the focal reducer.
Or would I get more benefit from a better camera?
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Re: Daystar DS 60
Regards the first question I wish I could say you'd get a good Quark, but, who knows, roll a dice! Buy from somewhere with a returns policy. I bought an Mg Quark from FLO earlier in the year and it was not fit for purpose, so, it went back and the guys at FLO were absolutely great about it.
A new camera is more predictable though, something with 5.6um pixels is good with the Quark / Daystar focal ratios, eg 174 chipped cameras.
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Re: Daystar DS 60
Thanks Mark
that sort of confirms what I was thinking with the Quarks, I ordered the ss60-ds from FLO for that exact reason and glad I did, although the first scope was not questionable (it looked like it had been dropped or banged about a lot in transit somewhere) FLO were very good.
As for the camera the camera I am using, Opticstar PL 131M, it has 5.2um pixels so close enough, light throughput is the issue as exposure times slows the camera down, so a more sensitive camera with USB3 to take advantage of it would be needed.
Sensitivity seems to be an unspecified comparable quantity with cameras, it seems user views are the most useful here.
Rod
that sort of confirms what I was thinking with the Quarks, I ordered the ss60-ds from FLO for that exact reason and glad I did, although the first scope was not questionable (it looked like it had been dropped or banged about a lot in transit somewhere) FLO were very good.
As for the camera the camera I am using, Opticstar PL 131M, it has 5.2um pixels so close enough, light throughput is the issue as exposure times slows the camera down, so a more sensitive camera with USB3 to take advantage of it would be needed.
Sensitivity seems to be an unspecified comparable quantity with cameras, it seems user views are the most useful here.
Rod
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Re: Daystar DS 60
Hi all
Just a little update on the Quark unit.
I have always had problems with slight vignetting when using the bino head on the end of the quark unit.
This vignetting was just a random dark area to one side if the view. After going through all the optical alignment and bolting everything up solid I found the vignetting was caused by an inherent problem with the design of all Quark units not just the ss-60ds.
The units are in two distinct parts, the red etalon part and the black telecentric part. The two parts are screwed together and then locked in place by a small anti tamper screw, it is this screw that is the problem.
Instead of the two parts being screwed together tightly and then the screw placement is drilled and taped and the screw is then fixed at this point, the black telecentric part has a series of tapped holes all around its thread and the unit is then screwed together until it is tight then backed off till the hole in the etalon part matches with the nearest taped hole in the telecentric unit and the screw is fitted.
The problem is that this leaves the two parts loose on the threads and the extra weight of the bino head or a heavy camera causes the two parts to bend apart leaving the etalon and everything after it out of alignment.
Easy fix is to just remove the screw and tighten the two parts together as was done on the original Quarks and leave the screw out.
After removing the screw I found the Etalon is in fact Just a standard 21mm quark etalon stopped down to 16mm at the rear to get around some edge problems with the mica as I thought it would be. Interestingly my friends very good standard Quark only has an 18mm output due to a similar metal stop at the rear.
The telecentric lenses look to be the same as the standard Quark as well.
I hope this is useful to some who may encounter this problem
Rod
Just a little update on the Quark unit.
I have always had problems with slight vignetting when using the bino head on the end of the quark unit.
This vignetting was just a random dark area to one side if the view. After going through all the optical alignment and bolting everything up solid I found the vignetting was caused by an inherent problem with the design of all Quark units not just the ss-60ds.
The units are in two distinct parts, the red etalon part and the black telecentric part. The two parts are screwed together and then locked in place by a small anti tamper screw, it is this screw that is the problem.
Instead of the two parts being screwed together tightly and then the screw placement is drilled and taped and the screw is then fixed at this point, the black telecentric part has a series of tapped holes all around its thread and the unit is then screwed together until it is tight then backed off till the hole in the etalon part matches with the nearest taped hole in the telecentric unit and the screw is fitted.
The problem is that this leaves the two parts loose on the threads and the extra weight of the bino head or a heavy camera causes the two parts to bend apart leaving the etalon and everything after it out of alignment.
Easy fix is to just remove the screw and tighten the two parts together as was done on the original Quarks and leave the screw out.
After removing the screw I found the Etalon is in fact Just a standard 21mm quark etalon stopped down to 16mm at the rear to get around some edge problems with the mica as I thought it would be. Interestingly my friends very good standard Quark only has an 18mm output due to a similar metal stop at the rear.
The telecentric lenses look to be the same as the standard Quark as well.
I hope this is useful to some who may encounter this problem
Rod
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Re: Daystar DS 60
Nice!
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Re: Daystar DS 60
Hi
Just a couple of pics from late on this evening of the small active region taken just under twenty mins apart with the removed SS-60DS Quark on my 6" F15 refractor.
you can really see how quickly things change in these active areas.
Sorry about the orientation change I was messing with the camera.
Rod
Just a couple of pics from late on this evening of the small active region taken just under twenty mins apart with the removed SS-60DS Quark on my 6" F15 refractor.
you can really see how quickly things change in these active areas.
Sorry about the orientation change I was messing with the camera.
Rod
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Re: Daystar DS 60
A 6" F15 refractor! old-school awesome! Who makes it? One that long I hope it is housed in a fixed observatory. Chromatic Aberration must be pretty low at that focal length. I bet it gives wonderful views.
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Re: Daystar DS 60
Great pic Rod! C'mon, I think everyone wants to see a picture of that frac!
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Re: Daystar DS 60
Hi
Since altguy started this thread I have had several goes at taking an image with my ss60-DS with little luck.
Yesterday evening I put the scope back together as the sun had gone behind next doors house and used the ss60 in the front garden.
I know the quark unit works ok as I have been using it in a strange configuration on my 6" f15 refractor.
Anyway I was struggling to get a good image one of the problems I have is when the image has any detail at low magnification with a 32mm eyepiece is it is to bright. The image is pretty useless with anything above a 25mm eyepiece.
So I decided to try and stop down the objective using filter adapter rings.
Well I got down to 33mm and the image was far superior with lots of surface detail, the proms became more apparent against the now black background and I also got to 10mm eyepiece before it all became soft.
A good result so today I had a go at imaging again, the more the scope was stopped down the better, the best so far below taken with the 33mm stop, seeing was bad as it was taken just after midday.
Rest of the setup was a ASI174 with a 0.5X reducer lens in the 1.25 camera nosepiece so working around 0.7X.
I used AS!3 1000 frames with 75 percent used, shapend in ImPPG then light and dark areas flattened and final colour in Paint Shop Pro9.
Any ideas?
Cheers Rod
Since altguy started this thread I have had several goes at taking an image with my ss60-DS with little luck.
Yesterday evening I put the scope back together as the sun had gone behind next doors house and used the ss60 in the front garden.
I know the quark unit works ok as I have been using it in a strange configuration on my 6" f15 refractor.
Anyway I was struggling to get a good image one of the problems I have is when the image has any detail at low magnification with a 32mm eyepiece is it is to bright. The image is pretty useless with anything above a 25mm eyepiece.
So I decided to try and stop down the objective using filter adapter rings.
Well I got down to 33mm and the image was far superior with lots of surface detail, the proms became more apparent against the now black background and I also got to 10mm eyepiece before it all became soft.
A good result so today I had a go at imaging again, the more the scope was stopped down the better, the best so far below taken with the 33mm stop, seeing was bad as it was taken just after midday.
Rest of the setup was a ASI174 with a 0.5X reducer lens in the 1.25 camera nosepiece so working around 0.7X.
I used AS!3 1000 frames with 75 percent used, shapend in ImPPG then light and dark areas flattened and final colour in Paint Shop Pro9.
Any ideas?
Cheers Rod
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Re: Daystar DS 60
Probably about as good as you're going to get tbh Rod, especially given you're running at 33mm aperture.
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Re: Daystar DS 60
Hi Mark
I agree
Because of the Daystar etalon needing the telecentric beam or f30 to work well Daystar need a very fast lens to achieve a full disk.
I am gusing the lens is probably a 60mm binocular lens going by its f ratio so is going to be limited.
Also when imaging I notice the suns image moves around the field in a circle when focusing so not perfectly aligned in any position.
I will have a look at the focuser and see if there is any way to adjust this but don't have much hope.
Cheers Rod
I agree
Because of the Daystar etalon needing the telecentric beam or f30 to work well Daystar need a very fast lens to achieve a full disk.
I am gusing the lens is probably a 60mm binocular lens going by its f ratio so is going to be limited.
Also when imaging I notice the suns image moves around the field in a circle when focusing so not perfectly aligned in any position.
I will have a look at the focuser and see if there is any way to adjust this but don't have much hope.
Cheers Rod
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Re: Daystar DS 60
that's impressive for the price and i couldn't agree more: highly moddable, good view. why isn't this more popular?
have you removed the field stop? i was wondering if it's meant for the telecentric beam more than etalon edge problem.
have you removed the field stop? i was wondering if it's meant for the telecentric beam more than etalon edge problem.
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Re: Daystar DS 60
Hi daslolo
I haven't tried removing the 16mm stop as it means sriping the etalon unit down and according to Daystar they are under pressure and releasing this will damage the etalon.
It is strange that Daystar quote this unit as having a 16mm eyepiece aperture (the size of the rear field stop) but for the Quark standard they quote 21mm clear filter aperture when the rear field stop in them is actually 19mm, as my friend has confirmed on both his Quark units. Daystars wording is quite ambiguas in their advertising.
If I hold my etalon in the correct light I can see just on one side some micha cristallisation so assume this is what is being masked.
I have just bought a ASI 174 mm with reasonable size chip and no problems with vignetting.
I mainly use microscope eyepieces because I like the binocular head and you get high quality eyepieces for a lot less money and again no vignetting, plossls are fine as well.
Cheers Rod
I haven't tried removing the 16mm stop as it means sriping the etalon unit down and according to Daystar they are under pressure and releasing this will damage the etalon.
It is strange that Daystar quote this unit as having a 16mm eyepiece aperture (the size of the rear field stop) but for the Quark standard they quote 21mm clear filter aperture when the rear field stop in them is actually 19mm, as my friend has confirmed on both his Quark units. Daystars wording is quite ambiguas in their advertising.
If I hold my etalon in the correct light I can see just on one side some micha cristallisation so assume this is what is being masked.
I have just bought a ASI 174 mm with reasonable size chip and no problems with vignetting.
I mainly use microscope eyepieces because I like the binocular head and you get high quality eyepieces for a lot less money and again no vignetting, plossls are fine as well.
Cheers Rod
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Re: Daystar DS 60
Hi
Checking the Combo the blocker is 21mm and the output is 19.2mm.
And the output looks the same on the 4.2x.
Andrew.
Checking the Combo the blocker is 21mm and the output is 19.2mm.
And the output looks the same on the 4.2x.
Andrew.
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Re: Daystar DS 60
That's what it says on their website, scroll down to bottom to the info box
http://www.daystarfilters.com/Quark.shtml
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Re: Daystar DS 60
Mica crystallization? What's that?
Yes solar is forgiving. What head is that? I have a TS big bino on the nexstar, 2" nose, won't fit a quark or scout.
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Re: Daystar DS 60
Hi Mark
I guess that's where they got it from but who put it on their website
Hi daslolo Mica is a mineral that forms naturally and is in flat planes of slightly romboidal structure crystals, if the mica is distorted from its flat structure its crystal bonds break and you get hairline fractures in the shape of the crystals. These are best seen through a polarizing microscope when looking at igneous rock like basalt. At a certain angle of light I can just see what looks very much like this on one edge of the etalon but is masked by the slightly smaller aperture mask at the output of the Quark.
The binohead I am using is a Indian copy of a Olympus microscope head. It was on Ebay for about £20 delivered at the time, I just machined out a T2 camera fitting to add to the nose of the bino head so I can screw on 1.25" and 2" t2 fittings. Any similar style binocular head with the sliding eyepiece holders should work as they have the shortest light path, if you are very lucky Celestron made one like this a few years ago but they are quite rare.
The nice thing about the Quark is its telecentric beam is very forgiving of what comes after it, so you have a lot of focus movement behind the quark unlike the light cone from your telescope.
I guess that's where they got it from but who put it on their website
Hi daslolo Mica is a mineral that forms naturally and is in flat planes of slightly romboidal structure crystals, if the mica is distorted from its flat structure its crystal bonds break and you get hairline fractures in the shape of the crystals. These are best seen through a polarizing microscope when looking at igneous rock like basalt. At a certain angle of light I can just see what looks very much like this on one edge of the etalon but is masked by the slightly smaller aperture mask at the output of the Quark.
The binohead I am using is a Indian copy of a Olympus microscope head. It was on Ebay for about £20 delivered at the time, I just machined out a T2 camera fitting to add to the nose of the bino head so I can screw on 1.25" and 2" t2 fittings. Any similar style binocular head with the sliding eyepiece holders should work as they have the shortest light path, if you are very lucky Celestron made one like this a few years ago but they are quite rare.
The nice thing about the Quark is its telecentric beam is very forgiving of what comes after it, so you have a lot of focus movement behind the quark unlike the light cone from your telescope.
- daslolo
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Re: Daystar DS 60
Cheap Indian copy for solar - Brilliant!
If like to see a tuto on how to machine adapters. They become expensive fast. And not fun to search.
If like to see a tuto on how to machine adapters. They become expensive fast. And not fun to search.
PST on its way to modding heaven
Quark + Orion 120mm + beloptik
LX65 8" ACF
Quark + Orion 120mm + beloptik
LX65 8" ACF
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Re: Daystar DS 60
Very interesting thread ... I've been thinking about removing the quark from my 60SS
However mine displays quite a dark image compared to these , it does offer good
surface detail when the seeing is ok ... the quark unit simply unscrews from the 80SS but
would also require an adaptor of sorts.
Brian
However mine displays quite a dark image compared to these , it does offer good
surface detail when the seeing is ok ... the quark unit simply unscrews from the 80SS but
would also require an adaptor of sorts.
Brian
" Gentlemen only ever use Refractors "
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Re: Daystar DS 60
Just taken a solar scout etalon assembly to bits, it's a 21mm quark unit masked down to 16mm
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Hoping for clear skies.....lol
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Re: Daystar DS 60
I hope it still wasn't under warranty....
Lunt 8x32 SUNoculars
Orion 70mm Solar Telescope
Celestron AstroMaster Alt/Az Mount
Meade Coronado SolarMax II 60 DS
Meade Coronado SolarMax II 90 DS
Meade Coronado AZS Alt/Az Mount
Astro-Tech AT72EDII with Altair solar wedge
Celestron NexStar 102GT with Altair solar wedge
Losmandy AZ8 Alt/Az Mount
Sky-Watcher AZGTI Alt-Az GoTo mount
Cameras: ZWO ASI178MM, PGR Grasshopper, PGR Flea
Lunt, Coronado, TeleVue, Orion and Meade eyepieces
Visual Observer
" Way more fun to see it! "
Orion 70mm Solar Telescope
Celestron AstroMaster Alt/Az Mount
Meade Coronado SolarMax II 60 DS
Meade Coronado SolarMax II 90 DS
Meade Coronado AZS Alt/Az Mount
Astro-Tech AT72EDII with Altair solar wedge
Celestron NexStar 102GT with Altair solar wedge
Losmandy AZ8 Alt/Az Mount
Sky-Watcher AZGTI Alt-Az GoTo mount
Cameras: ZWO ASI178MM, PGR Grasshopper, PGR Flea
Lunt, Coronado, TeleVue, Orion and Meade eyepieces
Visual Observer
" Way more fun to see it! "
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Re: Daystar DS 60
That's very interesting to see the makeup of the etalon.
Had the Quark unit actually stopped working as well as the broken objective and if so can you see why now you have it apart?
Two years on from atlguy starting this thread and a big learning curve I am now getting much better results from this scope, detailed features on the sun help a lot.
Rod
Had the Quark unit actually stopped working as well as the broken objective and if so can you see why now you have it apart?
Two years on from atlguy starting this thread and a big learning curve I am now getting much better results from this scope, detailed features on the sun help a lot.
Rod
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Re: Daystar DS 60
The led in the unit still changes to green in all settings but as the objective is bust I'm unable to confirm if the etalon still works. A visual look shows no problems and its not decontacted.
The lower Andover 656FS02-12.5 is also ok.
The lower Andover 656FS02-12.5 is also ok.
Hoping for clear skies.....lol
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Re: Daystar DS 60
Hi Moriniboy
If you can get it back together and it still works you could use it on another scope, all you need to do is have an adapter made to fit it to a 2" focuser.
I use my ss60ds Quark on my 6" and 102mm refractors regularly, actually works much better than the daystar scope
Also if the front of the scope is ok, that is the objective comes out ok you should be able to replace it with a cheap 60mm binocular objective as these are nearly always f3.8 to f4 so just get a cheap pair of binos and you also have a spare objective.
If it's not working I would be interested in the Andover filter PM me if it's available.
Cheers Rod
If you can get it back together and it still works you could use it on another scope, all you need to do is have an adapter made to fit it to a 2" focuser.
I use my ss60ds Quark on my 6" and 102mm refractors regularly, actually works much better than the daystar scope
Also if the front of the scope is ok, that is the objective comes out ok you should be able to replace it with a cheap 60mm binocular objective as these are nearly always f3.8 to f4 so just get a cheap pair of binos and you also have a spare objective.
If it's not working I would be interested in the Andover filter PM me if it's available.
Cheers Rod
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Re: Daystar DS 60
I've always felt that the 60/70/90 Coronado was the aperturemarktownley wrote: ↑Thu Apr 09, 2020 8:49 am No offence meant to atlguy and apologies if it comes across that way I was being cynical about Daystar and Coronado, I could have probably got a Lunt swipe in there too You get used to what the use of wavelets looks like in a solar image with experience. Good advice from Rusted above too. The only thing I would add is double check the images being saved from AS3 are in 16bit TIFF format before processing in ImPPG.
Same as the 50/60/80/100/152 from lunt Mark.. but the double stack quote from Daystar I smelled a rat straight away
Anycase.. that image could it be focus as I don't see any active regions, presume with the Daystar scopes they need power to heat the etalon, or is it both etalons