The Quark is here, more questions

[EGRAY_OBSERVATORY]

You can do both Solar and night-sky, but will always have to adjust the table/pc at least to configure for either - which judging by the photos is no real problem at all, as long as you get some sleep in-between..

ps you have one of the best-price GOTO Alt-Eq mounts available which I also have too, so that is more than capable of doing the business..

Terry

[TareqPhoto]

So, i already bought a tent which i wanted to buy long time ago, not just for solar or imaging anyway, so i better put it under use for that.

I found a way for focus, but i can't tell until i go for it and give it a try, but i can't now as i don't want to spend more now, maybe later.

Also, from my first tests i really need to go with cleaning kit/set and also buying a flat tool, that will definitely help me in general for any imaging, some issues can't be fixed just by itself, without focusing method and cleaning and flat my results will never get better just suddenly or by luck or even magic, so i think i bought the wedge and Quark but i forgot to add more accessories to help for better or cleaner results as well, and sounds those are affordable somehow, but i found them late after i already spend a lot on another stuff, solar isn't the only thing i do anyway.

[TareqPhoto]

You can do both Solar and night-sky, but will always have to adjust the table/pc at least to configure for either - which judging by the photos is no real problem at all, as long as you get some sleep in-between..

ps you have one of the best-price GOTO Alt-Eq mounts available which I also have too, so that is more than capable of doing the business..

Terry

Sure will do, in fact i am done with my setup at all, i asked in another sites or even on Facebook about Mini PC, don't you think that only solar is getting my interest, in fact DSO imaging is far more difficult for me, and i spent a lot and still not done, so i am thinking to add some more items or gear which can help me in anything including night imaging and solar, using a box is a good idea but i can find like many issues with it as well, so i am hoping to go with another solutions better approach, even with the Quark alone i need few more things to add, maybe like a tilt adapter and a diagonal, i am already shopping for UV/IR cut filter to use when necessary, i am sure i won't stop at one setup or combo.

Tareq

[EGRAY_OBSERVATORY]

I can't really give you more advice from my 15-years of dealing with Solar-viewing and 10-years of imaging Tareq, as I may not have the very-best gear (and lots of it), but have learnt to keep it simple - even after spending a fortune and getting some decent results. Even though large periods of the year here have prevented using such due to low-down Sun and obstructions, as well as not often good or perfect weather too.

SolarChat is here to help and has helped numerous SolarChatters over many years - for free... Its' archives are full of information for that purpose...

Terry

[TareqPhoto]

I can't really give you more advice from my 15-years of dealing with Solar-viewing and 10-years of imaging Tareq, as I may not have the very-best gear (and lots of it), but have learnt to keep it simple - even after spending a fortune and getting some decent results. Even though large periods of the year here have prevented using such due to low-down Sun and obstructions, as well as not often good or perfect weather too.

SolarChat is here to help and has helped numerous SolarChatters over many years - for free... Its' archives are full of information for that purpose...

Terry

And that is why i am here, and i still have long way to go, hopefully i don't regret it after a while, it is a journey, and each walk in it by certain ways, i have to see my ways into it so far, i might give up after some times as our weather is very hot most of the year by summer and some from spring with autumn, so it will limit me for it, also i can't keep dreaming about saving for high end solar gear, i still think about that for DSO and planetary as well, so i will always be hunting and running after high end gear that i can't afford then i miss the time with my current gear which at some points i will feel it reached limits or i can't do much with it anymore.

I will keep watching people work here and learn, and i will share whenever i have something, i am new to solar so i will take it slowly, but now i have the chance to buy some more stuff at cheap zone so i won't miss this chance, i already saw many products are gone or got increase in prices, so my imaging skills can always wait, but not the market and products.

Tareq

[rsfoto]

Don't worry, i didn't buy the Quark to make APOD results next day, i will take my time, but i have enough photography background and astrophotography that i should just waste like 1 year to understand how to use it, i was doing planetary and lunar, and just recently i was testing my Wedge for the first time and i am quite happy so far, just need more time and practice, clean my sensors, improving my processing skills, and i am ready to go, so the Quark won't go anywhere, but with our weather i have to rush my imaging a bit, maybe we have clear skies for DSO and planetary but we have really long time with very and extreme hot sun, which will limit my solar imaging a lot, i can expect that i can do solar like mostly 20-40 days per year, and i can't promise that i will always be ready and available and in mood in those days.

I think i will buy that cable controller focusing for my ST80, i don't want to buy an expensive one for it, i can pay up to $100 new for a motor, more than that will be for my other better scopes.

Hi Tareq,

Now i need donation as long i have to buy more stuff such as this auto focuser, now i know that i must have perfect focus for the sun, the two time tests showed me what i have to do, but it means i have to pay again to get stuff for the job, always i buy things to find out that it is missing more parts, it is like buying a car just to find out that it didn't come with the engine or the key which you need to buy separately

Who told you that the Astronomy hobby is cheap ... ¿?

[TareqPhoto]

Hi Tareq,

Who told you that the Astronomy hobby is cheap ... ¿?

People down in the rabbit hole

[vkx86]

Congrats on new toy!

2 - UV/IR cut filter still transfers 50% of Sun's energy in visible spectrum. Baader CCD Red/35 nm will block almost all energy and pass only red part for H-alpha.

6 - You don't have to buy TV EPs. GSO Plossls, which I use, are very good. Baader Plossls are also very good. Get 40mm and 32mm first.

[TareqPhoto]

Congrats on new toy!

2 - UV/IR cut filter still transfers 50% of Sun's energy in visible spectrum. Baader CCD Red/35 nm will block almost all energy and pass only red part for H-alpha.

6 - You don't have to buy TV EPs. GSO Plossls, which I use, are very good. Baader Plossls are also very good. Get 40mm and 32mm first.

Thank you.

Ok, so i better go with Ha filter or Red to have better signal for Ha in solar? Will my Ha 3nm be any good here?

I saw different brands for Plossls and cheaper, i am sure they are all good, but is good enough to choose or people only think of highest quality?
I was thinking like, highest quality one of them say 32mm, and cheaper good one like 40mm, i don't have to buy all of them as highest quality and also not thinking about to have them all only good and nothing of highest quality, one of this and one of that and i am set, what do you think? After all that TV Plossl isn't too much expensive, it is just with so many things i want to buy i just feel like i won't buy not now or soon.

[vkx86]

Ok, so i better go with Ha filter or Red to have better signal for Ha in solar? Will my Ha 3nm be any good here?

I saw different brands for Plossls and cheaper, i am sure they are all good, but is good enough to choose or people only think of highest quality?
I was thinking like, highest quality one of them say 32mm, and cheaper good one like 40mm, i don't have to buy all of them as highest quality and also not thinking about to have them all only good and nothing of highest quality, one of this and one of that and i am set, what do you think? After all that TV Plossl isn't too much expensive, it is just with so many things i want to buy i just feel like i won't buy not now or soon.

Antlia Ha 3nm? - Should work very well, although it has slightly less transmission than Baader 35nm (88% vs 95%).

Optically TV, Brandon, Baader, GSO, TS Plossl is an ole good Plossl and quality of polishing of surfaces is pretty comparable across manufacturers.
What's quite important in EP for visual Ha observation is reduction of reflections from your eyeball to lenses in EP, especially when observing proms on black background. Ha disk when it fills all FOV of EP is not affected by reflections.
Some manufacturers have better coatings to combat that reflections, such as TV and Brandon.
You will need to train your eyes and brain to observe Ha Sun, which is low contrast object in red color, human eye is less sensitive to red than to green.
Beware:
if seeing is not good - you will see almost nothing on the disk, whilst proms are far less affected by the seeing.

[Highbury Mark]

Agree the GSO Plossls are excellent, and keep reading that the Baader 32mm is a great performer too. Much as I love the TV32mm, it’s becoming unaffordable - if you want the eyeguard extender to help with long eye relief it’s almost £175 in the UK.

[TareqPhoto]

Ok, so i better go with Ha filter or Red to have better signal for Ha in solar? Will my Ha 3nm be any good here?

I saw different brands for Plossls and cheaper, i am sure they are all good, but is good enough to choose or people only think of highest quality?
I was thinking like, highest quality one of them say 32mm, and cheaper good one like 40mm, i don't have to buy all of them as highest quality and also not thinking about to have them all only good and nothing of highest quality, one of this and one of that and i am set, what do you think? After all that TV Plossl isn't too much expensive, it is just with so many things i want to buy i just feel like i won't buy not now or soon.

Antlia Ha 3nm? - Should work very well, although it has slightly less transmission than Baader 35nm (88% vs 95%).

Optically TV, Brandon, Baader, GSO, TS Plossl is an ole good Plossl and quality of polishing of surfaces is pretty comparable across manufacturers.
What's quite important in EP for visual Ha observation is reduction of reflections from your eyeball to lenses in EP, especially when observing proms on black background. Ha disk when it fills all FOV of EP is not affected by reflections.
Some manufacturers have better coatings to combat that reflections, such as TV and Brandon.
You will need to train your eyes and brain to observe Ha Sun, which is low contrast object in red color, human eye is less sensitive to red than to green.
Beware:
if seeing is not good - you will see almost nothing on the disk, whilst proms are far less affected by the seeing.

Yes, Antlia, but it is ok, i can forget this and instead use my Optolong 7nm, that has more transmission i assume, if also not much then i can always buy cheaper Ha filter that has wider pass than most Ha filters, something like Ha 12nm or more wider to allow, because i feel that Red is just a broadband pass filter that will allow more signals or band to it than Ha can, and also i was assuming that maybe with another Ha i might get sharper solar Ha then.

I will care less or worry less about visual and seeing, the sun won't go anywhere and definitely we have nice great seeing time to time, so i doubt that the whole year is only bad/poor seeing, and i care about those excellent great seeing days and not poor seeing days.
From a manual of Daystar Quark they mentioned that they tested several makers eyepieces and they found that the highest quality was with Plossl of TV, i really don't know why they said that, is that true? or just Market hype things, if it is true then i can't blind myself about it, and i already said, only one eyepiece of that quality, not all of them, i can start with cheaper affordable one, maybe 25mm or 40mm, i want to have 32mm from the best brand as possible.
I have bought colored filters in the past, i really really don't know what they are used for, not for imaging but for visual, something like Red, Yellow, Orange, Green blue violet and ND, i don't remember them all, 6 filters in a box, so are those good to be used for visual then?

[TareqPhoto]

Agree the GSO Plossls are excellent, and keep reading that the Baader 32mm is a great performer too. Much as I love the TV32mm, it’s becoming unaffordable - if you want the eyeguard extender to help with long eye relief it’s almost £175 in the UK.

I found it at slightly cheaper price than £175, and if i don't have anything else to buy then this price is really nothing, in fact my Wedge + CaK cheap one is almost more price than than eyepiece, and i will buy once i forget about it, and not buying it now or tomorrow, but later in future, so i preserve that 32mm for TV Plossl, but i still can buy more EPs like 40 or 42 or 25, and with those i can go cheaper such as Baader or ES or Baader or whatever, isn't that a good idea?

[vkx86]

...and also i was assuming that maybe with another Ha i might get sharper solar Ha then.

...Plossl of TV, i really don't know why they said that, is that true? or just Market hype things, if it is true then i can't blind myself about it, and i
I have bought colored filters in the past, i really really don't know what they are used for, not for imaging but for visual, something like Red, Yellow, Orange, Green blue violet and ND, i don't remember them all, 6 filters in a box, so are those good to be used for visual then?

I don't think that you'll notice difference between high-quality filters put as ERFs before Quark.

Most probably marketing hype, since Daystar recommends TV's telecentrics.
TV EPs are top-quality nonetheless. The question is how much you want to pay for difference in view between TV and say Baader.

Color filters are used for visual planetary observations, but I'd never had or used one.

[TareqPhoto]

...and also i was assuming that maybe with another Ha i might get sharper solar Ha then.

...Plossl of TV, i really don't know why they said that, is that true? or just Market hype things, if it is true then i can't blind myself about it, and i
I have bought colored filters in the past, i really really don't know what they are used for, not for imaging but for visual, something like Red, Yellow, Orange, Green blue violet and ND, i don't remember them all, 6 filters in a box, so are those good to be used for visual then?

I don't think that you'll notice difference between high-quality filters put as ERFs before Quark.

Most probably marketing hype, since Daystar recommends TV's telecentrics.
TV EPs are top-quality nonetheless. The question is how much you want to pay for difference in view between TV and say Baader.

Color filters are used for visual planetary observations, but I'd never had or used one.

I am just asking, i might try, or not, depending on people suggestions or opinions, i already have the filter, and i am planning to buy another UV/IR cut filter so i use this dedicated only for solar things, i don't want to keep swapping filters between DSO and solar and planetary, and it is a cheap filter anyway, but does the brand of filter here really matter such as getting Baader U/I cut or from ZWO or from Astrodon?

It depends on how much is that from Baader and from TV, if the difference is like 50% or more then i can say it is not worthy, Baader isn't cheap as well, so if that TV EP is about $200 and Baader is about $110 i will just go with TV then, saving that $90 will not make me feel comfortable as i will always keep thinking about the quality or difference, i am still buying TV eyepieces in future for other things such as DSO or planetary, they Plossls are the cheapest i can see, i am able to pay up to $250 for one eyepiece anyway, i don't think i need like 5-10 eyepieces for solar right now or soon.

Ok, i will read more about those filters, if they are for planetary then i have to test them with my Mak, or waiting to have another scope in future for visual and imaging and give them a try.

Thank you

[TareqPhoto]

Ok, i will not use the quark just any soon yet, i will buy few things first which will take me time due to budget, so i will ask those question just to be sure i am getting things right or buy correct things.

1. Does a brand of the UV/IR cut really matter here for Ha solar imaging?
2. Does using a diagonal make less issues using the Quark as someone mentioned he used one to avoid tilt or i think Newt rings.
3. For point #2, does the maker/brand of a diagonal also matter? Do you recommend something?
4. Where do you place/mount that UV/IR cut filter with the Quark so i know which size to buy?
5. I saw that Daystar also selling that tilter or tilt adapter, i won't rush to have it, but is it worthy?
6. My Quark version is without Barlow effect, so if i have to use a Barlow or similar, where can i place that in the setup? I have 2" and 1.25" ones.
7. The Quark need power to operate it, do you use any kind of power portable one to do that? I think it will be funny i use kind of power adapter cord long to connect for power, but i can't trust if some portable power devices might not be good enough powering or not heat resistance.

Those are for now, i care for first two points now so i can try to buy those as soon as possible when i get budget to start.

[vkx86]

I am just asking, i might try, or not, depending on people suggestions or opinions, i already have the filter, and i am planning to buy another UV/IR cut filter so i use this dedicated only for solar things, i don't want to keep swapping filters between DSO and solar and planetary, and it is a cheap filter anyway, but does the brand of filter here really matter such as getting Baader U/I cut or from ZWO or from Astrodon?

It depends on how much is that from Baader and from TV, if the difference is like 50% or more then i can say it is not worthy, Baader isn't cheap as well, so if that TV EP is about $200 and Baader is about $110 i will just go with TV then, saving that $90 will not make me feel comfortable as i will always keep thinking about the quality or difference, i am still buying TV eyepieces in future for other things such as DSO or planetary, they Plossls are the cheapest i can see, i am able to pay up to $250 for one eyepiece anyway, i don't think i need like 5-10 eyepieces for solar right now or soon.

If you plan to get dedicated energy-rejection filter for Ha solar - get Baader 35nm, it will protect your Quark far better than UV/IR cut filter.

Regarding difference in view between EPs, it's never 50%. The Law of Diminished Returns can be applied in optics freely, but in optics
further away from objective (lens/mirror) - the less is the component's influence on overall image quality is.
It also depends on your preferences. For example:
I still have Nikon Monarch 7 8x42 bino, which is very solid upper mid-range birding bino. It was retired when I got Zeiss Victory Pocket 8x25 bino, which cost almost twice and the visual difference in image is rather small to untrained eyes, but it's there and it's not 50% difference.

[TareqPhoto]

I am just asking, i might try, or not, depending on people suggestions or opinions, i already have the filter, and i am planning to buy another UV/IR cut filter so i use this dedicated only for solar things, i don't want to keep swapping filters between DSO and solar and planetary, and it is a cheap filter anyway, but does the brand of filter here really matter such as getting Baader U/I cut or from ZWO or from Astrodon?

It depends on how much is that from Baader and from TV, if the difference is like 50% or more then i can say it is not worthy, Baader isn't cheap as well, so if that TV EP is about $200 and Baader is about $110 i will just go with TV then, saving that $90 will not make me feel comfortable as i will always keep thinking about the quality or difference, i am still buying TV eyepieces in future for other things such as DSO or planetary, they Plossls are the cheapest i can see, i am able to pay up to $250 for one eyepiece anyway, i don't think i need like 5-10 eyepieces for solar right now or soon.

If you plan to get dedicated energy-rejection filter for Ha solar - get Baader 35nm, it will protect your Quark far better than UV/IR cut filter.

Ah yes, so then i better pass that UV/IR cut filter, but, later if i will use the wedge for WL and K-Line filter then i think i will use UV/IR cut instead.
So that Baader 35nm Ha is a regular narrowbanding filter or it is a filter designed for solar ERF?

Regarding difference in view between EPs, it's never 50%. The Law of Diminished Returns can be applied in optics freely, but in optics
further away from objective (lens/mirror) - the less is the component's influence on overall image quality is.
It also depends on your preferences. For example:
I still have Nikon Monarch 7 8x42 bino, which is very solid upper mid-range birding bino. It was retired when I got Zeiss Victory Pocket 8x25 bino, which cost almost twice and the visual difference in image is rather small to untrained eyes, but it's there and it's not 50% difference.

About 50% i was talking about the price, not the performance or magnification, because if the difference in price is like the twice or more then maybe i won't go with TV one, but if the difference is less then i don't mind to pay more and get TV, after all i think i am willing to pay more for 1 high end or high quality eyepieces which will live forever maybe, then i can add more cheap ones later.

[marktownley]

I just use cheap 25mm and 32mm plossls with my Quark for visual.

You can spend more but the law of diminishing returns soon sets in as said above...

[EGRAY_OBSERVATORY]

Absolutely agree Mark, as almost any old and cheap E.P. is sufficient for Solar and Lunar purposes/viewing, so it seems that only for Planetary-Dark Sky purposes would one need to look at more expensive types and manufacturers.

Perhaps for Planetary/D.S., purposes many of these questions need be allocated to the relevant web-sites ??

Terry

[vkx86]

Ah yes, so then i better pass that UV/IR cut filter, but, later if i will use the wedge for WL and K-Line filter then i think i will use UV/IR cut instead.
So that Baader 35nm Ha is a regular narrowbanding filter or it is a filter designed for solar ERF?

For WL with wedge, Baader Continuum is usual recommendation both for visual and imaging - I had one for visual with wedge and it's very good in boosting contrast. It already has UV/IR cut capabilities in it.

I have no idea what's recommended for K-line, since it's for imaging only and I have no interest in it currently.

Baader 35 nm is regular narrowband filter in first place, that is also very good in protecting mica etalons due to it's very good energy-rejection performance.

[TareqPhoto]

I just use cheap 25mm and 32mm plossls with my Quark for visual.

You can spend more but the law of diminishing returns soon sets in as said above...

I really need to read more about that, but if you are as a mod and long time experience using a cheap plossls then i should listen or follow, ok, you got me, i will buy a cheap ones then.

[TareqPhoto]

Absolutely agree Mark, as almost any old and cheap E.P. is sufficient for Solar and Lunar purposes/viewing, so it seems that only for Planetary-Dark Sky purposes would one need to look at more expensive types and manufacturers.

Perhaps for Planetary/D.S., purposes many of these questions need be allocated to the relevant web-sites ??

Terry

I have some eyepieces that came with few of my scopes including my ST80, and i bought two more, so i have 25mm, i will try that before i buy another one, not sure what is a plossl means, as the one i have isn't a plossl if i understand.

[TareqPhoto]

Ah yes, so then i better pass that UV/IR cut filter, but, later if i will use the wedge for WL and K-Line filter then i think i will use UV/IR cut instead.
So that Baader 35nm Ha is a regular narrowbanding filter or it is a filter designed for solar ERF?

For WL with wedge, Baader Continuum is usual recommendation both for visual and imaging - I had one for visual with wedge and it's very good in boosting contrast. It already has UV/IR cut capabilities in it.

I have no idea what's recommended for K-line, since it's for imaging only and I have no interest in it currently.

Baader 35 nm is regular narrowband filter in first place, that is also very good in protecting mica etalons due to it's very good energy-rejection performance.

I have a CaK which we agree that we call it as K-Line better, and that is for imaging only, so i am talking about imaging here, and they mentioned that for scopes like above 80mm up to 120mm should be used only, but i think for K-Line which is in UV band or little bit beyond then i should NOT use and UV cut filter then, the wedge can take care of the heat i believe, i forgot that K-Line is UV zone.

I saw that Baader 3nm Ha is out of stock everywhere, almost difficult to get it, so now i don't know what is a next option, but what about 7nm filter, is that too much narrow for it? For now i am only using my ST80 stopping it down to something i don't know, does that really need any kind of ERF anyway even for visual?

[EGRAY_OBSERVATORY]

for the last part of your last post, only say with an 80mm refractor - you might need to stop the aperture down to say 50mm - if the particular camera requires.

Cut-out 40 / 50 / 60 mm APERTURE F-STOPPERS and try them. (They may not even be necessary in your location, but trial and error is the way forward)...

Even most ordinary cameras/DSLR's etc., automatically stop-down/F-stop on request or when the light is too-much for its' sensor and dependent on the shutter-speed/ISO Rating for best capture...

[TareqPhoto]

for the last part of your last post, only say with an 80mm refractor - you might need to stop the aperture down to say 50mm - if the particular camera requires.

Cut-out 40 / 50 / 60 mm APERTURE F-STOPPERS and try them. (They may not even be necessary in your location, but trial and error is the way forward)...

Even most ordinary cameras/DSLR's etc., automatically stop-down/F-stop on request or when the light is too-much for its' sensor and dependent on the shutter-speed/ISO Rating for best capture...

I already said that i stopped down the scope, it came with that cap where it has another center hole, i didn't know what is that used for, but later on i found out that it is to stop down the scope, so i assume it will stop the scope to 60mm F/10, i really don't know, but is that F/10 enough with camera like ASI174MM? if i had ASI178MM then i can try that, and my ASI290MM is cutting the sun without full disc.

[TareqPhoto]

Hi again,

Sorry to keep asking so much and commenting a lot, i really like to learn a lot and also in so much rush

So as long my Quark is designed to be used with Refractors or SCT or Mak of F/15 and slower, then i really think about putting my Mak into use for it, all what i need is just frontal ERF, the scope is 7" [180mm], so i assume the ERF will be and so expensive, so i want to ask, is there any brand that can make any safe front ERF but at cheaper and reasonable prices?

I want to use the Mak to go longer focal length so i can image something like spots very much close up, i was thinking about buying a larger refractor such as 120mm, and i still need ERF as internal filter maybe, could be cheaper, but i don't want to add more scope now while i am still planning to add scopes for another things, and if it is possible with the Mak then maybe getting ERF will do the job, but i can't depend on the cost really, i hardly bought this Quark and i am broke and trying to recover, but i won't recover as i will buy more in future, so i have either buying larger refractor, or ERF for my Mak, If you have another idea please let me know.

[EGRAY_OBSERVATORY]

Finally Tareq,
Rather than going round and round in circles.

Just try the Ha Quark into a an 80mm refractor with an ERF as advised by the manufacturer and with initially any Eye Piece of say 20mm and enjoy the view.

Then try a camera in place of the Eye piece and then snap away...

Quite simple.
Terry

[TareqPhoto]

Finally Tareq,
Rather than going round and round in circles.

Just try the Ha Quark into a an 80mm refractor with an ERF as advised by the manufacturer and with initially any Eye Piece of say 20mm and enjoy the view.

Then try a camera in place of the Eye piece and then snap away...

Quite simple.
Terry

Terry,

What you are saying just consider it done if i am still alive, i won't do that until i buy things first, but i only try to jump higher so later in far future when i am ready i can go with what i get as an answer, it all depends on the budget, if suddenly i bought things earlier and got budget for it i better be ready now so i don't wait answers or going in circles, i asked about Quark or searched about solar maybe last year, so only now i started, same if i want something new later in 5months to 1 year i start now.

Thanks Terry,
Tareq

[TareqPhoto]

I saw this filter, do you think this is worthy over for example UV/IR cut filter?

https://player-one-astronomy.com/produc ... omosphere/

It is wider than Red filter itself as i can see, so i don't know if i better go with something else like a Red filter if i can find cheap one or Ha narrowbanding one.

[christian viladrich]

Hello Tareq,
This is just a red filter, have a look there :
https://www.solarchatforum.com/viewtopi ... 10&t=34878

This beeing said, it is much better to use a red filter than an UV/IR-cut filter for this purpose. Any red filter such as Astronomik, Baader, ZWO would do the same job.

[TareqPhoto]

Hello Tareq,
This is just a red filter, have a look there :
https://www.solarchatforum.com/viewtopi ... 10&t=34878

This beeing said, it is much better to use a red filter than an UV/IR-cut filter for this purpose. Any red filter such as Astronomik, Baader, ZWO would do the same job.

Ok, so they rebranded a red filter and a continuum filter to their own model name after all, well, i can't buy a red filter alone from those brands you mentioned, and i am not interested in to buy a set only to use the red filter, i already have 2 sets i am using for other applications or targets of imaging.

[TareqPhoto]

I got a budget and i want to buy a good filter for the Quark but cheap one less than $100 if possible, what would it be?

This above from Player One is just $49, i can afford that, is it a good one or thee is something better and not expensive?

I checked out one site i order form a lot to see if they have Baader Ha 35nm, but it is out of stock and sounds it is also out of production [discontinued], i don't know another cheap Ha filter unless it is 7nm or 12nm, but are those blocking some Ha band that is needed for Solar Ha?

[marktownley]

Hi Tareq,

Aim to get a 2" filter rather than a 1.25", you can then mount it higher in the optical path which is preferable.

[TareqPhoto]

Hi Tareq,

Aim to get a 2" filter rather than a 1.25", you can then mount it higher in the optical path which is preferable.

What do you by mean higher in the optical path? I mean where exactly?

[christian viladrich]

Hello Tareq,
This is just a red filter, have a look there :
https://www.solarchatforum.com/viewtopi ... 10&t=34878

This beeing said, it is much better to use a red filter than an UV/IR-cut filter for this purpose. Any red filter such as Astronomik, Baader, ZWO would do the same job.

Ok, so they rebranded a red filter and a continuum filter to their own model name after all, well, i can't buy a red filter alone from those brands you mentioned, and i am not interested in to buy a set only to use the red filter, i already have 2 sets i am using for other applications or targets of imaging.

Just for the record, you can buy Baader R filter separatly :
https://www.baader-planetarium.com/en/f ... mized.html

You can do the same with Astronomik. Just send them a message. I've bought two blue 50 mm filters and one L 50 mm filter from them.

I have not checked with ZWO.

Anyway, my point was that there was nothing special about this filter. It is only a red filter.

[TareqPhoto]

Hello Tareq,
This is just a red filter, have a look there :
https://www.solarchatforum.com/viewtopi ... 10&t=34878

This beeing said, it is much better to use a red filter than an UV/IR-cut filter for this purpose. Any red filter such as Astronomik, Baader, ZWO would do the same job.

Ok, so they rebranded a red filter and a continuum filter to their own model name after all, well, i can't buy a red filter alone from those brands you mentioned, and i am not interested in to buy a set only to use the red filter, i already have 2 sets i am using for other applications or targets of imaging.

Just for the record, you can buy Baader R filter separatly :
https://www.baader-planetarium.com/en/f ... mized.html

You can do the same with Astronomik. Just send them a message. I've bought two blue 50 mm filters and one L 50 mm filter from them.

I have not checked with ZWO.

Anyway, my point was that there was nothing special about this filter. It is only a red filter.

Well, you and Mark never make it easier for me at all.

First, Mark said to aim for 2", which means i have to ignore/pass this filter because it is 1.25" only.

Second, you, saying there was nothing special, yes true, but the price is really special, that Baader filter even 1.25" is nearly twice the price of this Player One filter, so you and Mark both are pushing me to buy something more expensive after all, and i have many other items i want to buy also.

[TareqPhoto]

Ok, please if you read this thread, please, give you your suggestion or recommendation quickly so i can order quickly, i have the budget and other items are waiting to be ordered, only left this filter for the Quark, if i buy 2" version somewhere then i must use a 2" diagonal, i will test the cheap one i have and can't order a new better one, if i buy 1.25" then i can just place it directly to the Quark, so i have to decide quickly which path i want to go.

[TareqPhoto]

Ok, i ended up and ordered the UV/IR cut filter 2", very cheap one, after all i feel that no matter what filter i will buy as ERF they all will do the job just fine, and i looked at some Quark Ha results around and i see the majority are using either UV/IR cut filter or Baader D-ERF, so i went with the cheaper option here.

Thank you very much

[TareqPhoto]

What a pity!

I bought accessories to be used with my ST80 so i can start using my Quark, but while i was trying to install i damaged the focuser of ST80, now i can't fix it, and also i don't know where i lost my previous stock focus single speed if i should use that, now sounds i am stuck, maybe i will ask someone in the world to make me the aperture mask for my 90mm triplet then, i can't keep spending more for my ST80, and i won't risk playing with my other scopes unless i buy a motor, so i think i have to find a solution very soon, the accessories is nice.

[marktownley]

What have you done to the focuser? post some pics.

[TareqPhoto]

What have you done to the focuser? post some pics.

Here you can see what i did, sounds i can't return it back to its original condition or case, mainly that small metal piece with the black one, they always fallen out while i try, and i am not sure i placed that coupler correctly or not, the shaft of the focuser was thicker than the motor hole, this is a replacement focuser i used as i wanted to replace the stock single speed focuser of the scope.

_DSC5345.jpg (542.66 KiB) Viewed 2843 times

_DSC5344.jpg (366.29 KiB) Viewed 2843 times

[TareqPhoto]

And the worse thing is, that the brackets can't be mounted on the back of the focuser as well, so it sounds the focuser isn't compatible, means i have to find the older original focuser and use that instead of this replacement one, otherwise i have to find a correct L bracket so i can mount it on this focuser and be done with it.

[TareqPhoto]

Ok, sounds i will wait forever if i can't fix my scope, in this case the next scope i can try to use with the Quark is my 90mm triplet, i don't know how good it is compared to a doublet ED or achromatic refractor, but i have to give it a try, i just have to quickly try to figure out how to use the motorized focuser that i am using with it.

I can't stop down, i won't do those DIY things and no 3D printed ones, so does using a filter UV/IR cut enough with this scope? And if i use a focal extender, is that making any issue to the Quark?

My Quark version is the "combo", which is without a Barlow effect.

[marktownley]

Your 90mm triplet will be fine with the Quark, and yes, use the UV/IR cut filter as an ERF.

[marktownley]

What have you done to the focuser? post some pics.

Here you can see what i did, sounds i can't return it back to its original condition or case, mainly that small metal piece with the black one, they always fallen out while i try, and i am not sure i placed that coupler correctly or not, the shaft of the focuser was thicker than the motor hole, this is a replacement focuser i used as i wanted to replace the stock single speed focuser of the scope.

_DSC5345.jpg

_DSC5344.jpg

What is missing to stop you reassemble it?

[TareqPhoto]

Your 90mm triplet will be fine with the Quark, and yes, use the UV/IR cut filter as an ERF.

Ok, cool

[TareqPhoto]

What have you done to the focuser? post some pics.

Here you can see what i did, sounds i can't return it back to its original condition or case, mainly that small metal piece with the black one, they always fallen out while i try, and i am not sure i placed that coupler correctly or not, the shaft of the focuser was thicker than the motor hole, this is a replacement focuser i used as i wanted to replace the stock single speed focuser of the scope.

_DSC5345.jpg

_DSC5344.jpg

What is missing to stop you reassemble it?

It is no longer working like before, i managed to place the focuser back on the scope, but it sounds that it doesn't move smooth or precise at all, and i have to release the coarse knob of the focuser the single speed one, in general the focuser is no longer good as before, and it was my mistake trying to place the motor on it and the bracket isn't compatible, so the whole focuser is wrong, i have to replace it and go back to the old stock focuser if i can find it.

With 90mm it is already connected to a motor, i don't know if i can use it manually from computer or it will focus automatically, i don't know if the motor is able to focus on any target the scope is pointed at, i thought it is for the stars and planets only.

[fedele]

Our moneys are all good!

A Class Action!!!

[TareqPhoto]

Our moneys are all good!

A Class Action!!!