The Quark is here, more questions

TareqPhoto · Post by **TareqPhoto** » Mon Mar 07, 2022 2:15 pm

Hi all,

Finally i got the delivery of my Quark yesterday [06 March 2022], i didn't expect it will arrive that fast, which is good, the sun is hot but i can try to do it while it is still not fully extreme hot as summer, so i have like almost the rest of this month as much as i can before April and later to test and use it.

I downloaded a manual for this Quark, and it is very helpful, so i want to ask more questions to get more understand and learn better, so please bear mind with me for a while.

The manual mentioned few things, so i will put them as points questions:

1. Whey they mentioned to use something like ERF red or yellow front ERF if i use SCT or a Mak, mainly with the Mak off axis ERF? Why not green color? Is red and yellow only absorbing heat than any other color?

2. They mentioned using UV/IR cut filter if using scopes like refractors between 80mm up to 150mm, why? And won't that filter cut something of Ha band as well? Is there any recommendation of any UV/IR cut to be used? And where to place that UV/IR cut filter in the light path?

3. Should i use a diagonal or not? The Quark is 1.25", if i will use a diagonal, can i go with 2" instead and having that 2"-1.25" to install the Quark? and should i place the filter on this diagonal if it will be used and not on the Quark?

4. I read that i shouldn't use any refr scopes that have extra optics such as Petzval, i have a Quintuplet [72mm] which is with 2 optics as flattener, they mentioned the reason which is clear, so is that also applied to a triplet? And are all Petzval or Quintuplet not good to be used because that extra optics there?

5. I bought a test so i can go inside that with my laptop to view the screen without much of the sun light, but that will keep me so far from the scope and focuser, so then how can i focus on the sun and preview it from far screen?

6. I am thinking about buying an eyepieces for visual, i read from the manual that it is recommended to use a Plossl, TV most likely, i don't know if i can afford that, maybe i can afford one EPs from TV but then i have to choose which one out of three they recommended, and do you have any other recommendations?

7. Can i use any kind of fans to at least cooling my setup or mount or scope or even laptop without affecting the results captured?

8. I think the dust i can see on data is something i have to avoid or deal with, you mentioned for me to use air blower, is that all enough or any extra cleaning kits needed? Someone mentioned or recommended me to use a flat light tool to have flat frames to eliminate or reduce those dust and another artifacts, for now i ordered flat tools for all or most scopes except my ST80, so i don't know if i should buy one for it or just wait and see another options and also if i will buy a new scope, i don't have any for my Mak and Newt.

Enough for now, if i have anything else i may ask later, sorry for that much of question, i try to learn as much i can and understand everything needed and be careful, the sun is not a joke, and i really don't know what kind of issues i might face with the Quark from many bad reviews around, hopefully i can use it and operate it to full nice performance as much as possible, with the help and hopefully good seeing and weather i will try to produce better results, thanks.

Tareq

Post by **Montana** » Mon Mar 07, 2022 4:05 pm

Tareq,

Great news to hear your Quark has arrived

In answer to the first couple of questions, hydrogen alpha filters are extremely narrow filters to be able to look inside the hydrogen alpha absorption band. It is usually around 0.5A which is only 0.05nm wide (very small). This is at 656.28 nm. Therefore any ERF has to pass this wavelength or it would be blocked. A green filter would be around the 520nm but usually they are around 50nm wide so that still wouldn't be anywhere near 656nm. A good ERF for Halpha needs to be around the red end of the spectrum (above 600nm).

A Quark already has a red ERF at the front but because it is positioned at the rear (focus) of the light path it can only take so much heat. Therefore, if using on an aperture above 80-100mm it is recommended to use a front mounted ERF as well just to limit the heat and prolong the life of the Quark ERF. Likewise, if using on a SCT/Mak you have secondary lenses and mirrors and these could be damaged by the focused heat of the Sun so a front ERF is essential.

A UV/IR filter cuts the far infra red and ultra violet, this is not where the 656nm Halpha band is. This helps again as a block particularly with the far infra red which causes heat. Heat is the biggest problem with the Sun. Ideally you want only the single wavelength of 656nm to come through to the focus.

Dust, keep the camera very clean with an air blower! You can also do a flat field like this https://www.flickr.com/photos/alexandra ... 535593245/

Alexandra

TareqPhoto · Post by **TareqPhoto** » Mon Mar 07, 2022 4:26 pm

Montana wrote: ↑Mon Mar 07, 2022 4:05 pm Tareq,

Great news to hear your Quark has arrived
In answer to the first couple of questions, hydrogen alpha filters are extremely narrow filters to be able to look inside the hydrogen alpha absorption band. It is usually around 0.5A which is only 0.05nm wide (very small). This is at 656.28 nm. Therefore any ERF has to pass this wavelength or it would be blocked. A green filter would be around the 520nm but usually they are around 50nm wide so that still wouldn't be anywhere near 656nm. A good ERF for Halpha needs to be around the red end of the spectrum (above 600nm).

A Quark already has a red ERF at the front but because it is positioned at the rear (focus) of the light path it can only take so much heat. Therefore, if using on an aperture above 80-100mm it is recommended to use a front mounted ERF as well just to limit the heat and prolong the life of the Quark ERF. Likewise, if using on a SCT/Mak you have secondary lenses and mirrors and these could be damaged by the focused heat of the Sun so a front ERF is essential.

A UV/IR filter cuts the far infra red and ultra violet, this is not where the 656nm Halpha band is. This helps again as a block particularly with the far infra red which causes heat. Heat is the biggest problem with the Sun. Ideally you want only the single wavelength of 656nm to come through to the focus.

Dust, keep the camera very clean with an air blower! You can also do a flat field like this https://www.flickr.com/photos/alexandra ... 535593245/

Alexandra

Hi Alexandra,

Thank you very much for having time to answer me, i so appreciate it a lot

Ok, i will just try to follow instructions carefully, with certain scopes i will use just a filter and with other scopes a full dedicated ERF frontal i believe, i don't have any interest in damaging my gear by heat.

The Mak and reflectors will be away for now, and i am thinking about my choices of refrctors, mainly my ST80, is this needing any UV/IR cut there? Also if i use a Barlow with it because my Quark version is zero Barlow, won't that making any heat worse? And what about if i buy another refractor say one from 120mm up to 152mm?

For flat i will use the one i bought recently, but i didn't buy one for ST80, i will see if they have that hopefully, but then i don't know how to stack/integrate and calibrate the light result with that flat later.

Tareq.

Post by **Merlin66** » Tue Mar 08, 2022 4:29 am

Tareq,
Your Q4....
This is totally incorrect! An Urban Myth.
I have it in writing from Manufacturers of rear element refractors - Petzval designs etc. (Televue, Williams Optics, Takahashi) that their telescopes are 100% safe to use with Herschel wedges with NO additional ERF protection.
If you have read otherwise you should correct the author.

Post by **marktownley** » Tue Mar 08, 2022 6:16 am

Tareq.

Keep it simple. You have an ED80, start off with that first, use a 2" diagonal with uv/ir filter on the nose as an ERF. You need to see if your Quark actually works first.

Mark

EGRAY_OBSERVATORY · Post by **EGRAY_OBSERVATORY** » Tue Mar 08, 2022 12:45 pm

Tareq.
Please do exactly as Mark has just said above.

Keeping it simple is correct and to use an 80mm aperture refractor as said with the ERF is all you need to do and get used to starting-off that way.

Forget all your other scopes for the time-being and simply start at the beginning with using the Quark.

Only later when you know how to use the Quark and know it is working properly too, then to experiment with other gear.

ACCURATE FOCUSING can only be achieved by focusing on the Suns' LIMB-EDGE - which can be achieved more accurately by using "SHARPCAP" and using its' ZOOMING-IN tool. That Zooming-in does not affect the camera's capture of the disk, which for any close-up - will require a Barlow...

Post some images here for us to comment upon..

Terry

rsfoto · Post by **rsfoto** » Tue Mar 08, 2022 3:15 pm

Hi Tareq,

You have got a lot of very good advises and I just would like to add one...

Do not expect to immediately get that WOW factor as you need to slowly learn how your QUARK behaves.

This is not a Plug & Play hardware ... The atmospheric condition changes from day to day and can make you despair ...

Take it slowly but steadily.

About focusing the only decent way to achieve that is a motorized focuser. You will not be able to run back and forth for focusing.

TareqPhoto · Post by **TareqPhoto** » Tue Mar 08, 2022 3:51 pm

Merlin66 wrote: ↑Tue Mar 08, 2022 4:29 am Tareq,
Your Q4....
This is totally incorrect! An Urban Myth.
I have it in writing from Manufacturers of rear element refractors - Petzval designs etc. (Televue, Williams Optics, Takahashi) that their telescopes are 100% safe to use with Herschel wedges with NO additional ERF protection.
If you have read otherwise you should correct the author.

It wasn't talking about the Wedge, it was talking about Quark, so i was asking myself what is the Quark different than Wedge rather than Ha and WL if the light has to pass all optics anyway? and why should i correct them if they already know about it or they tested, they mentioned it only for safety, if others can do it then it will be under their own risk, so the manufacturers maybe tried to leave the responsibilities on users.

TareqPhoto · Post by **TareqPhoto** » Tue Mar 08, 2022 3:54 pm

marktownley wrote: ↑Tue Mar 08, 2022 6:16 am Tareq.

Keep it simple. You have an ED80, start off with that first, use a 2" diagonal with uv/ir filter on the nose as an ERF. You need to see if your Quark actually works first.

Mark

Hey Mark,

No, i don't have ED80, it is ST80, and achro not ED, but i have 90mm triplet, also 60ED two of them, that ST80 came with own scope cap with stopping down feature, but all other scopes aren't, just a plain cap, so i don't know how to stop those down anyway, but definitely my scope of us for now is ST80, i used this with my Wedge CaK, will use it for Quark ad see how that will perform, i am not rush for a new scope now, but i have to decide before a coming winter by end of this year.

Tareq

TareqPhoto · Post by **TareqPhoto** » Tue Mar 08, 2022 4:01 pm

EGRAY_OBSERVATORY wrote: ↑Tue Mar 08, 2022 12:45 pm Tareq.
Please do exactly as Mark has just said above.

Keeping it simple is correct and to use an 80mm aperture refractor as said with the ERF is all you need to do and get used to starting-off that way.

Forget all your other scopes for the time-being and simply start at the beginning with using the Quark.

Only later when you know how to use the Quark and know it is working properly too, then to experiment with other gear.

ACCURATE FOCUSING can only be achieved by focusing on the Suns' LIMB-EDGE - which can be achieved more accurately by using "SHARPCAP" and using its' ZOOMING-IN tool. That Zooming-in does not affect the camera's capture of the disk, which for any close-up - will require a Barlow...

Post some images here for us to comment upon..

Terry

Hey Terry,

Well, i hope you all don't get me wrong, i am not giving up my current scopes, and i am not rushing, but i have to prepare and get ready with my choice for another scope later when the time is coming, i always waste like 8 months to 1 year in choices, so i don't want to do that later when i am ready as i can't wait months to decide, so better do it now until i am ready then i can order immediately, and i am sure that i want to use more scopes and not only ST80, but for now this is my best option over other scopes, i did use it with the Wedge.

I need to buy an ERF as UV/IR cut filter, i have this filter but it is used or mounted on the camera color for DSO, i don't want to keep swapping filters, but i am not thinking about which another and second UV/IR cut filter to buy, i saw very cheap one, so not sure if they are all having good quality enough.

And then i have to think about a good diagonal, not sure if a high quality one is really necessary, i really want to know which one that "Pedro" is using with his Quark, i have two that came with my scopes, i think one of them is for 2", but i can't talk about their quality as they are so amazing cheap which they just included with the scopes for no extra costs.

I know about zooming in by Sharpcap/FC, i tried that with the Wedge and CaK filter and it kind of didn't work, the image so so blurry that i can't see any details enough as edges to judge the focus, but i don't know if that is a different story with the Quark.

Tareq

TareqPhoto · Post by **TareqPhoto** » Tue Mar 08, 2022 4:09 pm

rsfoto wrote: ↑Tue Mar 08, 2022 3:15 pm Hi Tareq,

You have got a lot of very good advises and I just would like to add one...

Do not expect to immediately get that WOW factor as you need to slowly learn how your QUARK behaves.

This is not a Plug & Play hardware ... The atmospheric condition changes from day to day and can make you despair ...

Take it slowly but steadily.

About focusing the only decent way to achieve that is a motorized focuser. You will not be able to run back and forth for focusing.

Don't worry, i didn't buy the Quark to make APOD results next day, i will take my time, but i have enough photography background and astrophotography that i should just waste like 1 year to understand how to use it, i was doing planetary and lunar, and just recently i was testing my Wedge for the first time and i am quite happy so far, just need more time and practice, clean my sensors, improving my processing skills, and i am ready to go, so the Quark won't go anywhere, but with our weather i have to rush my imaging a bit, maybe we have clear skies for DSO and planetary but we have really long time with very and extreme hot sun, which will limit my solar imaging a lot, i can expect that i can do solar like mostly 20-40 days per year, and i can't promise that i will always be ready and available and in mood in those days.

I think i will buy that cable controller focusing for my ST80, i don't want to buy an expensive one for it, i can pay up to $100 new for a motor, more than that will be for my other better scopes.

EGRAY_OBSERVATORY · Post by **EGRAY_OBSERVATORY** » Tue Mar 08, 2022 5:15 pm

Tareq, please take a photo of your whole set-up, scope, pc included to give us an idea of the physical-distance of you operating the whole gear..

Terry

TareqPhoto · Post by **TareqPhoto** » Tue Mar 08, 2022 6:21 pm

EGRAY_OBSERVATORY wrote: ↑Tue Mar 08, 2022 5:15 pm Tareq, please take a photo of your whole set-up, scope, pc included to give us an idea of the physical-distance of you operating the whole gear..

Terry

Those are old photos i took to show my setup for DSO before i upgraded much last 2 years, you can have the idea, it is same distance and setup, even same that black scope that i use for solar anyway [ST80], i don't know what that can tell you anything Terry.

: _DSC4727.jpg (116.68 KiB) Viewed 2742 times

: _DSC4731.jpg (242.68 KiB) Viewed 2742 times

Later i might take another photo of my whole setup that i use for solar, but i try not show my yard and background just in case, i just feel like showing my whole setup won't anyone much.

Post by **marktownley** » Tue Mar 08, 2022 6:58 pm

You need to put that laptop in a box to shield it from the sun

rsfoto · Post by **rsfoto** » Tue Mar 08, 2022 7:10 pm

TareqPhoto wrote: ↑Tue Mar 08, 2022 4:09 pm
rsfoto wrote: ↑Tue Mar 08, 2022 3:15 pm Hi Tareq,

You have got a lot of very good advises and I just would like to add one...

Do not expect to immediately get that WOW factor as you need to slowly learn how your QUARK behaves.

This is not a Plug & Play hardware ... The atmospheric condition changes from day to day and can make you despair ...

Take it slowly but steadily.

About focusing the only decent way to achieve that is a motorized focuser. You will not be able to run back and forth for focusing.
Don't worry, i didn't buy the Quark to make APOD results next day, i will take my time, but i have enough photography background and astrophotography that i should just waste like 1 year to understand how to use it, i was doing planetary and lunar, and just recently i was testing my Wedge for the first time and i am quite happy so far, just need more time and practice, clean my sensors, improving my processing skills, and i am ready to go, so the Quark won't go anywhere, but with our weather i have to rush my imaging a bit, maybe we have clear skies for DSO and planetary but we have really long time with very and extreme hot sun, which will limit my solar imaging a lot, i can expect that i can do solar like mostly 20-40 days per year, and i can't promise that i will always be ready and available and in mood in those days.

I think i will buy that cable controller focusing for my ST80, i don't want to buy an expensive one for it, i can pay up to $100 new for a motor, more than that will be for my other better scopes.

Hi Tareq,

I think i will buy that cable controller focusing for my ST80, i don't want to buy an expensive one for it, i can pay up to $100 new for a motor, more than that will be for my other better scopes.

Do not underestimate focusing when doing Solar imaging which is a bit more demanding compared to DSO ... but I guess you already know this

TareqPhoto · Post by **TareqPhoto** » Tue Mar 08, 2022 7:29 pm

marktownley wrote: ↑Tue Mar 08, 2022 6:58 pm You need to put that laptop in a box to shield it from the sun

Very true, i really don't know how is the condition of this laptop now after like 3-4 days and nights under the sun and night dew/humidity, but i bought a tent which i will try to use it from now to stay inside with a small fan so i can protect myself and laptop from the direct sunlight and maybe to preview the screen better, and i will see if i can use like an extra cloth not heavy to cover some sides of the tent for more blockage.

Post by **marktownley** » Tue Mar 08, 2022 7:31 pm

TareqPhoto wrote: ↑Tue Mar 08, 2022 7:29 pm
marktownley wrote: ↑Tue Mar 08, 2022 6:58 pm You need to put that laptop in a box to shield it from the sun
Very true, i really don't know how is the condition of this laptop now after like 3-4 days and nights under the sun and night dew/humidity, but i bought a tent which i will try to use it from now to stay inside with a small fan so i can protect myself and laptop from the direct sunlight and maybe to preview the screen better, and i will see if i can use like an extra cloth not heavy to cover some sides of the tent for more blockage.

Previewing the screen effectively is key to good focusing. Don't over complicate, just get a box, you can focus the scope too then also

TareqPhoto · Post by **TareqPhoto** » Tue Mar 08, 2022 7:31 pm

rsfoto wrote: ↑Tue Mar 08, 2022 7:10 pm
TareqPhoto wrote: ↑Tue Mar 08, 2022 4:09 pm
rsfoto wrote: ↑Tue Mar 08, 2022 3:15 pm Hi Tareq,

You have got a lot of very good advises and I just would like to add one...

Do not expect to immediately get that WOW factor as you need to slowly learn how your QUARK behaves.

This is not a Plug & Play hardware ... The atmospheric condition changes from day to day and can make you despair ...

Take it slowly but steadily.

About focusing the only decent way to achieve that is a motorized focuser. You will not be able to run back and forth for focusing.
Don't worry, i didn't buy the Quark to make APOD results next day, i will take my time, but i have enough photography background and astrophotography that i should just waste like 1 year to understand how to use it, i was doing planetary and lunar, and just recently i was testing my Wedge for the first time and i am quite happy so far, just need more time and practice, clean my sensors, improving my processing skills, and i am ready to go, so the Quark won't go anywhere, but with our weather i have to rush my imaging a bit, maybe we have clear skies for DSO and planetary but we have really long time with very and extreme hot sun, which will limit my solar imaging a lot, i can expect that i can do solar like mostly 20-40 days per year, and i can't promise that i will always be ready and available and in mood in those days.

I think i will buy that cable controller focusing for my ST80, i don't want to buy an expensive one for it, i can pay up to $100 new for a motor, more than that will be for my other better scopes.

Hi Tareq,

I think i will buy that cable controller focusing for my ST80, i don't want to buy an expensive one for it, i can pay up to $100 new for a motor, more than that will be for my other better scopes.
Do not underestimate focusing when doing Solar imaging which is a bit more demanding compared to DSO ... but I guess you already know this

Now i need donation as long i have to buy more stuff such as this auto focuser, now i know that i must have perfect focus for the sun, the two time tests showed me what i have to do, but it means i have to pay again to get stuff for the job, always i buy things to find out that it is missing more parts, it is like buying a car just to find out that it didn't come with the engine or the key which you need to buy separately

TareqPhoto · Post by **TareqPhoto** » Tue Mar 08, 2022 7:35 pm

marktownley wrote: ↑Tue Mar 08, 2022 7:31 pm
TareqPhoto wrote: ↑Tue Mar 08, 2022 7:29 pm
marktownley wrote: ↑Tue Mar 08, 2022 6:58 pm You need to put that laptop in a box to shield it from the sun
Very true, i really don't know how is the condition of this laptop now after like 3-4 days and nights under the sun and night dew/humidity, but i bought a tent which i will try to use it from now to stay inside with a small fan so i can protect myself and laptop from the direct sunlight and maybe to preview the screen better, and i will see if i can use like an extra cloth not heavy to cover some sides of the tent for more blockage.
Previewing the screen effectively is key to good focusing. Don't over complicate, just get a box, you can focus the scope too then also

Having a box could not be a solution or a tempo one, the laptop is still very far from the focuser because the scope is going to the other direction for the sun which is away from the laptop, and when i go to the back of the scope to focus then the laptop screen and live view is not clear at all and so blurry even when i zoomed in 200%, but the tent is like better, and i found a way for focus even away from the scope, so it is like a 2-in-1 solution better than the box, and i can stay in that tent even longer, while the box will protect the laptop alone.

Post by **marktownley** » Tue Mar 08, 2022 7:38 pm

TareqPhoto wrote: ↑Tue Mar 08, 2022 7:35 pm Having a box could not be a solution or a tempo one, the laptop is still very far from the focuser because the scope is going to the other direction for the sun which is away from the laptop, and when i go to the back of the scope to focus then the laptop screen and live view is not clear at all and so blurry even when i zoomed in 200%, but the tent is like better, and i found a way for focus even away from the scope, so it is like a 2-in-1 solution better than the box, and i can stay in that tent even longer, while the box will protect the laptop alone.

I'm rather confused here. Just move the laptop closer to the scope?

TareqPhoto · Post by **TareqPhoto** » Tue Mar 08, 2022 8:06 pm

marktownley wrote: ↑Tue Mar 08, 2022 7:38 pm
TareqPhoto wrote: ↑Tue Mar 08, 2022 7:35 pm Having a box could not be a solution or a tempo one, the laptop is still very far from the focuser because the scope is going to the other direction for the sun which is away from the laptop, and when i go to the back of the scope to focus then the laptop screen and live view is not clear at all and so blurry even when i zoomed in 200%, but the tent is like better, and i found a way for focus even away from the scope, so it is like a 2-in-1 solution better than the box, and i can stay in that tent even longer, while the box will protect the laptop alone.
I'm rather confused here. Just move the laptop closer to the scope?

It is as much as it can be, because the table is to the side and i can't just get in the middle of the mount by magic, so if i get the laptop closer it is still far from another direction, like for example if i make it closer to the focuser when it is pointed to the sun then it will be far from the scope pointing to the North when i started for polar alignment, so it means i will keep moving the laptop to each direction for setup and imaging, i start by late night or very early morning before the sun is out, the scope is slewing in all directions, so i can't just move the scope closer to the scope for one direction, still not near even if i put the laptop just exactly under the mount tripod, the tripod legs prevented the table to get any closer.

Post by **marktownley** » Tue Mar 08, 2022 8:28 pm

When you're imaging the sun it's only one direction, there is no slewing around so just move the table to the best position when you start to solar observe.

Use a smaller table if you can't get close enough?

EGRAY_OBSERVATORY · Post by **EGRAY_OBSERVATORY** » Tue Mar 08, 2022 9:16 pm

"CONFUSCIOUS SAY" Tareq.

1. No need for a remote-focuser of any sort, so save the money.

2. Simply move the table around and close-enough to the scope for adjusting focus etc. by hand - (Arms Length)..

3. Have the laptop-screen pointing away from the Sun and as others have said, make-up a suitable Sun-shield for the laptop as well as for yourself.
3b. Make-up suitable scope covers if left outside, to keep Sand or Bugs etc. at bay.

4. Laptop does not need to stay outside during either High Day Heat or Night Sky (when not in use) to save dewing-up or over-heating issues...

5. Set-up as previously advised (Accurate Polar-alignment for Solar - not necessary).

5b. Sun is so bright, that very-short exposures only required and no need for images to stack, where single-frame captures will suffice.

6. So after setting-up and pointing at Old Sol, snap away, process results and post on that website called "SOLARCHAT" under the page "This is SolarChat !!" so we can all admire and comment on the results.

7. That way, we can advise you of any further work you might (I did say might) need to improve your imaging, processing and the final results -
before venturing any further in to the world of Solar-imaging/experimenting with other scopes, filters etc...

8. Finally, there are likely to be many of us who would only too-likely wish to be in your "neck of the woods or sands even" to gain the benefit of your weather, for day or night observing/imaging..

9. Thus Endeth My lesson...

Terry

TareqPhoto · Post by **TareqPhoto** » Tue Mar 08, 2022 9:28 pm

marktownley wrote: ↑Tue Mar 08, 2022 8:28 pm When you're imaging the sun it's only one direction, there is no slewing around so just move the table to the best position when you start to solar observe.

Use a smaller table if you can't get close enough?

I don't know what to say, i am still messing around with setup, if i start late night only for solar then yes, but sometimes and that what i did the first day testing the Wedge i was doing the DSO imaging, and then after i finished and before the sun is out i changed the scope and camera, so i was placing the laptop to the South direction because i was polar aligning and also the targets were mostly by East so i could focus too while i am facing the laptop because the screen is always facing the west on the table.

In all cases, i don't want to make things very easy for one type of imaging, i can do some imaging by night and then continue day time, which means i need to move things around, but i feel like now for solar i have to do things little different as well, now i found a way to do it without moving the laptop closer or further, no actually i can move the laptop further and still can do it, so i will follow that plan and see how it will go.

TareqPhoto · Post by **TareqPhoto** » Tue Mar 08, 2022 9:38 pm

EGRAY_OBSERVATORY wrote: ↑Tue Mar 08, 2022 9:16 pm "CONFUSCIOUS SAY" Tareq.

1. No need for a remote-focuser of any sort, so save the money.

2. Simply move the table around and close-enough to the scope for adjusting focus etc. by hand - (Arms Length)..

3. Have the laptop-screen pointing away from the Sun and as others have said, make-up a suitable Sun-shield for the laptop as well as for yourself.
3b. Make-up suitable scope covers if left outside, to keep Sand or Bugs etc. at bay.

4. Laptop does not need to stay outside during either High Day Heat or Night Sky (when not in use) to save dewing-up or over-heating issues...

5. Set-up as previously advised (Accurate Polar-alignment for Solar - not necessary).
5b. Sun is so bright, that very-short exposures only required and no need for images to stack, where single-frame captures will suffice.

6. So after setting-up and pointing at Old Sol, snap away, process results and post on that website called "SOLARCHAT" under the page "This is SolarChat !!" so we can all admire and comment on the results.

7. That way, we can advise you of any further work you might (I did say might) need to improve your imaging, processing and the final results -
before venturing any further in to the world of Solar-imaging/experimenting with other scopes, filters etc...

8. Finally, there are likely to be many of us who would only too-likely wish to be in your "neck of the woods or sands even" to gain the benefit of your weather, for day or night observing/imaging..

9. Thus Endeth My lesson...

Terry

Terry, oh Terry, you can't help yourself about it, don't you

1. It is too late, i bought the Quark, and it is all your fault or this site in general.

2. I posted from the Wedge, i think two tests are enough for now until i learn more or do something first.

3. I am still new at it, and i said bear in mind with me, be patient.
3b. Didn't i say bear in mind with me?!!!

4. I will get there sooner or later hopefully, i just don't have the hole time in life to keep waiting and testing and trying and practicing to make people happy that i followed their way or i succeeded already, i want to have fun, and sometimes i go the hard way.

5. I still look for another scope for solar with the Wedge and Quark, i don't think i really want only to practice with ST80 anyway, and i think i will have really enough much time using it until i can afford and buy another scope, i don't have to wait 2 years before i decide to use something else than ST80.
5b. So come on and recommend me another affordable scope that i can use with Wedge WL CaK and Quark.

6. I found a way for focusing, and i think it is a nice idea, and cheap also, but i think now i am in a little issue with financial situation, so i have to take a break for a while, which means no soon solar imaging then even with my new product came, the Quark.

7. Thus Endeth, thank you very much for reading.

Tareq

EGRAY_OBSERVATORY · Post by **EGRAY_OBSERVATORY** » Tue Mar 08, 2022 9:39 pm

You can do both Solar and night-sky, but will always have to adjust the table/pc at least to configure for either - which judging by the photos is no real problem at all, as long as you get some sleep in-between..

ps you have one of the best-price GOTO Alt-Eq mounts available which I also have too, so that is more than capable of doing the business..

Terry

TareqPhoto · Post by **TareqPhoto** » Tue Mar 08, 2022 9:42 pm

So, i already bought a tent which i wanted to buy long time ago, not just for solar or imaging anyway, so i better put it under use for that.

I found a way for focus, but i can't tell until i go for it and give it a try, but i can't now as i don't want to spend more now, maybe later.

Also, from my first tests i really need to go with cleaning kit/set and also buying a flat tool, that will definitely help me in general for any imaging, some issues can't be fixed just by itself, without focusing method and cleaning and flat my results will never get better just suddenly or by luck or even magic, so i think i bought the wedge and Quark but i forgot to add more accessories to help for better or cleaner results as well, and sounds those are affordable somehow, but i found them late after i already spend a lot on another stuff, solar isn't the only thing i do anyway.

TareqPhoto · Post by **TareqPhoto** » Tue Mar 08, 2022 9:46 pm

EGRAY_OBSERVATORY wrote: ↑Tue Mar 08, 2022 9:39 pm You can do both Solar and night-sky, but will always have to adjust the table/pc at least to configure for either - which judging by the photos is no real problem at all, as long as you get some sleep in-between..

ps you have one of the best-price GOTO Alt-Eq mounts available which I also have too, so that is more than capable of doing the business..

Terry

Sure will do, in fact i am done with my setup at all, i asked in another sites or even on Facebook about Mini PC, don't you think that only solar is getting my interest, in fact DSO imaging is far more difficult for me, and i spent a lot and still not done, so i am thinking to add some more items or gear which can help me in anything including night imaging and solar, using a box is a good idea but i can find like many issues with it as well, so i am hoping to go with another solutions better approach, even with the Quark alone i need few more things to add, maybe like a tilt adapter and a diagonal, i am already shopping for UV/IR cut filter to use when necessary, i am sure i won't stop at one setup or combo.

Tareq

EGRAY_OBSERVATORY · Post by **EGRAY_OBSERVATORY** » Tue Mar 08, 2022 9:53 pm

I can't really give you more advice from my 15-years of dealing with Solar-viewing and 10-years of imaging Tareq, as I may not have the very-best gear (and lots of it), but have learnt to keep it simple - even after spending a fortune and getting some decent results. Even though large periods of the year here have prevented using such due to low-down Sun and obstructions, as well as not often good or perfect weather too.

SolarChat is here to help and has helped numerous SolarChatters over many years - for free... Its' archives are full of information for that purpose...

Terry

TareqPhoto · Post by **TareqPhoto** » Tue Mar 08, 2022 10:18 pm

EGRAY_OBSERVATORY wrote: ↑Tue Mar 08, 2022 9:53 pm I can't really give you more advice from my 15-years of dealing with Solar-viewing and 10-years of imaging Tareq, as I may not have the very-best gear (and lots of it), but have learnt to keep it simple - even after spending a fortune and getting some decent results. Even though large periods of the year here have prevented using such due to low-down Sun and obstructions, as well as not often good or perfect weather too.

SolarChat is here to help and has helped numerous SolarChatters over many years - for free... Its' archives are full of information for that purpose...

Terry

And that is why i am here, and i still have long way to go, hopefully i don't regret it after a while, it is a journey, and each walk in it by certain ways, i have to see my ways into it so far, i might give up after some times as our weather is very hot most of the year by summer and some from spring with autumn, so it will limit me for it, also i can't keep dreaming about saving for high end solar gear, i still think about that for DSO and planetary as well, so i will always be hunting and running after high end gear that i can't afford then i miss the time with my current gear which at some points i will feel it reached limits or i can't do much with it anymore.

I will keep watching people work here and learn, and i will share whenever i have something, i am new to solar so i will take it slowly, but now i have the chance to buy some more stuff at cheap zone so i won't miss this chance, i already saw many products are gone or got increase in prices, so my imaging skills can always wait, but not the market and products.

Tareq

rsfoto · Post by **rsfoto** » Wed Mar 09, 2022 2:14 am

TareqPhoto wrote: ↑Tue Mar 08, 2022 7:31 pm
rsfoto wrote: ↑Tue Mar 08, 2022 7:10 pm
TareqPhoto wrote: ↑Tue Mar 08, 2022 4:09 pm

Don't worry, i didn't buy the Quark to make APOD results next day, i will take my time, but i have enough photography background and astrophotography that i should just waste like 1 year to understand how to use it, i was doing planetary and lunar, and just recently i was testing my Wedge for the first time and i am quite happy so far, just need more time and practice, clean my sensors, improving my processing skills, and i am ready to go, so the Quark won't go anywhere, but with our weather i have to rush my imaging a bit, maybe we have clear skies for DSO and planetary but we have really long time with very and extreme hot sun, which will limit my solar imaging a lot, i can expect that i can do solar like mostly 20-40 days per year, and i can't promise that i will always be ready and available and in mood in those days.

I think i will buy that cable controller focusing for my ST80, i don't want to buy an expensive one for it, i can pay up to $100 new for a motor, more than that will be for my other better scopes.

Hi Tareq,

Now i need donation as long i have to buy more stuff such as this auto focuser, now i know that i must have perfect focus for the sun, the two time tests showed me what i have to do, but it means i have to pay again to get stuff for the job, always i buy things to find out that it is missing more parts, it is like buying a car just to find out that it didn't come with the engine or the key which you need to buy separately
Who told you that the Astronomy hobby is cheap ... ¿?

TareqPhoto · Post by **TareqPhoto** » Wed Mar 09, 2022 4:19 am

rsfoto wrote: ↑Wed Mar 09, 2022 2:14 am
TareqPhoto wrote: ↑Tue Mar 08, 2022 7:31 pm
rsfoto wrote: ↑Tue Mar 08, 2022 7:10 pm

Hi Tareq,

Who told you that the Astronomy hobby is cheap ... ¿?

People down in the rabbit hole

vkx86 · Post by **vkx86** » Wed Mar 09, 2022 6:03 am

Congrats on new toy!

2 - UV/IR cut filter still transfers 50% of Sun's energy in visible spectrum. Baader CCD Red/35 nm will block almost all energy and pass only red part for H-alpha.

6 - You don't have to buy TV EPs. GSO Plossls, which I use, are very good. Baader Plossls are also very good. Get 40mm and 32mm first.

TareqPhoto · Post by **TareqPhoto** » Wed Mar 09, 2022 1:08 pm

vkx86 wrote: ↑Wed Mar 09, 2022 6:03 am Congrats on new toy!

2 - UV/IR cut filter still transfers 50% of Sun's energy in visible spectrum. Baader CCD Red/35 nm will block almost all energy and pass only red part for H-alpha.

6 - You don't have to buy TV EPs. GSO Plossls, which I use, are very good. Baader Plossls are also very good. Get 40mm and 32mm first.

Thank you.

Ok, so i better go with Ha filter or Red to have better signal for Ha in solar? Will my Ha 3nm be any good here?

I saw different brands for Plossls and cheaper, i am sure they are all good, but is good enough to choose or people only think of highest quality?
I was thinking like, highest quality one of them say 32mm, and cheaper good one like 40mm, i don't have to buy all of them as highest quality and also not thinking about to have them all only good and nothing of highest quality, one of this and one of that and i am set, what do you think? After all that TV Plossl isn't too much expensive, it is just with so many things i want to buy i just feel like i won't buy not now or soon.

vkx86 · Post by **vkx86** » Wed Mar 09, 2022 5:16 pm

TareqPhoto wrote: ↑Wed Mar 09, 2022 1:08 pm Ok, so i better go with Ha filter or Red to have better signal for Ha in solar? Will my Ha 3nm be any good here?

I saw different brands for Plossls and cheaper, i am sure they are all good, but is good enough to choose or people only think of highest quality?
I was thinking like, highest quality one of them say 32mm, and cheaper good one like 40mm, i don't have to buy all of them as highest quality and also not thinking about to have them all only good and nothing of highest quality, one of this and one of that and i am set, what do you think? After all that TV Plossl isn't too much expensive, it is just with so many things i want to buy i just feel like i won't buy not now or soon.

Antlia Ha 3nm? - Should work very well, although it has slightly less transmission than Baader 35nm (88% vs 95%).

Optically TV, Brandon, Baader, GSO, TS Plossl is an ole good Plossl and quality of polishing of surfaces is pretty comparable across manufacturers.
What's quite important in EP for visual Ha observation is reduction of reflections from your eyeball to lenses in EP, especially when observing proms on black background. Ha disk when it fills all FOV of EP is not affected by reflections.
Some manufacturers have better coatings to combat that reflections, such as TV and Brandon.
You will need to train your eyes and brain to observe Ha Sun, which is low contrast object in red color, human eye is less sensitive to red than to green.
Beware:
if seeing is not good - you will see almost nothing on the disk, whilst proms are far less affected by the seeing.

Highbury Mark · Post by **Highbury Mark** » Wed Mar 09, 2022 5:26 pm

Agree the GSO Plossls are excellent, and keep reading that the Baader 32mm is a great performer too. Much as I love the TV32mm, it’s becoming unaffordable - if you want the eyeguard extender to help with long eye relief it’s almost £175 in the UK.

TareqPhoto · Post by **TareqPhoto** » Wed Mar 09, 2022 5:34 pm

vkx86 wrote: ↑Wed Mar 09, 2022 5:16 pm
TareqPhoto wrote: ↑Wed Mar 09, 2022 1:08 pm Ok, so i better go with Ha filter or Red to have better signal for Ha in solar? Will my Ha 3nm be any good here?

I saw different brands for Plossls and cheaper, i am sure they are all good, but is good enough to choose or people only think of highest quality?
I was thinking like, highest quality one of them say 32mm, and cheaper good one like 40mm, i don't have to buy all of them as highest quality and also not thinking about to have them all only good and nothing of highest quality, one of this and one of that and i am set, what do you think? After all that TV Plossl isn't too much expensive, it is just with so many things i want to buy i just feel like i won't buy not now or soon.
Antlia Ha 3nm? - Should work very well, although it has slightly less transmission than Baader 35nm (88% vs 95%).

Optically TV, Brandon, Baader, GSO, TS Plossl is an ole good Plossl and quality of polishing of surfaces is pretty comparable across manufacturers.
What's quite important in EP for visual Ha observation is reduction of reflections from your eyeball to lenses in EP, especially when observing proms on black background. Ha disk when it fills all FOV of EP is not affected by reflections.
Some manufacturers have better coatings to combat that reflections, such as TV and Brandon.
You will need to train your eyes and brain to observe Ha Sun, which is low contrast object in red color, human eye is less sensitive to red than to green.
Beware:
if seeing is not good - you will see almost nothing on the disk, whilst proms are far less affected by the seeing.

Yes, Antlia, but it is ok, i can forget this and instead use my Optolong 7nm, that has more transmission i assume, if also not much then i can always buy cheaper Ha filter that has wider pass than most Ha filters, something like Ha 12nm or more wider to allow, because i feel that Red is just a broadband pass filter that will allow more signals or band to it than Ha can, and also i was assuming that maybe with another Ha i might get sharper solar Ha then.

I will care less or worry less about visual and seeing, the sun won't go anywhere and definitely we have nice great seeing time to time, so i doubt that the whole year is only bad/poor seeing, and i care about those excellent great seeing days and not poor seeing days.
From a manual of Daystar Quark they mentioned that they tested several makers eyepieces and they found that the highest quality was with Plossl of TV, i really don't know why they said that, is that true? or just Market hype things, if it is true then i can't blind myself about it, and i already said, only one eyepiece of that quality, not all of them, i can start with cheaper affordable one, maybe 25mm or 40mm, i want to have 32mm from the best brand as possible.
I have bought colored filters in the past, i really really don't know what they are used for, not for imaging but for visual, something like Red, Yellow, Orange, Green blue violet and ND, i don't remember them all, 6 filters in a box, so are those good to be used for visual then?

TareqPhoto · Post by **TareqPhoto** » Wed Mar 09, 2022 5:37 pm

Highbury Mark wrote: ↑Wed Mar 09, 2022 5:26 pm Agree the GSO Plossls are excellent, and keep reading that the Baader 32mm is a great performer too. Much as I love the TV32mm, it’s becoming unaffordable - if you want the eyeguard extender to help with long eye relief it’s almost £175 in the UK.

I found it at slightly cheaper price than £175, and if i don't have anything else to buy then this price is really nothing, in fact my Wedge + CaK cheap one is almost more price than than eyepiece, and i will buy once i forget about it, and not buying it now or tomorrow, but later in future, so i preserve that 32mm for TV Plossl, but i still can buy more EPs like 40 or 42 or 25, and with those i can go cheaper such as Baader or ES or Baader or whatever, isn't that a good idea?

vkx86 · Post by **vkx86** » Thu Mar 10, 2022 9:33 am

TareqPhoto wrote: ↑Wed Mar 09, 2022 5:34 pm ...and also i was assuming that maybe with another Ha i might get sharper solar Ha then.

...Plossl of TV, i really don't know why they said that, is that true? or just Market hype things, if it is true then i can't blind myself about it, and i
I have bought colored filters in the past, i really really don't know what they are used for, not for imaging but for visual, something like Red, Yellow, Orange, Green blue violet and ND, i don't remember them all, 6 filters in a box, so are those good to be used for visual then?

I don't think that you'll notice difference between high-quality filters put as ERFs before Quark.

Most probably marketing hype, since Daystar recommends TV's telecentrics.
TV EPs are top-quality nonetheless. The question is how much you want to pay for difference in view between TV and say Baader.

Color filters are used for visual planetary observations, but I'd never had or used one.

TareqPhoto · Post by **TareqPhoto** » Thu Mar 10, 2022 1:11 pm

vkx86 wrote: ↑Thu Mar 10, 2022 9:33 am
TareqPhoto wrote: ↑Wed Mar 09, 2022 5:34 pm ...and also i was assuming that maybe with another Ha i might get sharper solar Ha then.

...Plossl of TV, i really don't know why they said that, is that true? or just Market hype things, if it is true then i can't blind myself about it, and i
I have bought colored filters in the past, i really really don't know what they are used for, not for imaging but for visual, something like Red, Yellow, Orange, Green blue violet and ND, i don't remember them all, 6 filters in a box, so are those good to be used for visual then?
I don't think that you'll notice difference between high-quality filters put as ERFs before Quark.

Most probably marketing hype, since Daystar recommends TV's telecentrics.
TV EPs are top-quality nonetheless. The question is how much you want to pay for difference in view between TV and say Baader.

Color filters are used for visual planetary observations, but I'd never had or used one.

I am just asking, i might try, or not, depending on people suggestions or opinions, i already have the filter, and i am planning to buy another UV/IR cut filter so i use this dedicated only for solar things, i don't want to keep swapping filters between DSO and solar and planetary, and it is a cheap filter anyway, but does the brand of filter here really matter such as getting Baader U/I cut or from ZWO or from Astrodon?

It depends on how much is that from Baader and from TV, if the difference is like 50% or more then i can say it is not worthy, Baader isn't cheap as well, so if that TV EP is about $200 and Baader is about $110 i will just go with TV then, saving that $90 will not make me feel comfortable as i will always keep thinking about the quality or difference, i am still buying TV eyepieces in future for other things such as DSO or planetary, they Plossls are the cheapest i can see, i am able to pay up to $250 for one eyepiece anyway, i don't think i need like 5-10 eyepieces for solar right now or soon.

Ok, i will read more about those filters, if they are for planetary then i have to test them with my Mak, or waiting to have another scope in future for visual and imaging and give them a try.

Thank you

TareqPhoto · Post by **TareqPhoto** » Thu Mar 10, 2022 1:31 pm

Ok, i will not use the quark just any soon yet, i will buy few things first which will take me time due to budget, so i will ask those question just to be sure i am getting things right or buy correct things.

1. Does a brand of the UV/IR cut really matter here for Ha solar imaging?
2. Does using a diagonal make less issues using the Quark as someone mentioned he used one to avoid tilt or i think Newt rings.
3. For point #2, does the maker/brand of a diagonal also matter? Do you recommend something?
4. Where do you place/mount that UV/IR cut filter with the Quark so i know which size to buy?
5. I saw that Daystar also selling that tilter or tilt adapter, i won't rush to have it, but is it worthy?
6. My Quark version is without Barlow effect, so if i have to use a Barlow or similar, where can i place that in the setup? I have 2" and 1.25" ones.
7. The Quark need power to operate it, do you use any kind of power portable one to do that? I think it will be funny i use kind of power adapter cord long to connect for power, but i can't trust if some portable power devices might not be good enough powering or not heat resistance.

Those are for now, i care for first two points now so i can try to buy those as soon as possible when i get budget to start.

vkx86 · Post by **vkx86** » Thu Mar 10, 2022 6:32 pm

TareqPhoto wrote: ↑Thu Mar 10, 2022 1:11 pm I am just asking, i might try, or not, depending on people suggestions or opinions, i already have the filter, and i am planning to buy another UV/IR cut filter so i use this dedicated only for solar things, i don't want to keep swapping filters between DSO and solar and planetary, and it is a cheap filter anyway, but does the brand of filter here really matter such as getting Baader U/I cut or from ZWO or from Astrodon?

It depends on how much is that from Baader and from TV, if the difference is like 50% or more then i can say it is not worthy, Baader isn't cheap as well, so if that TV EP is about $200 and Baader is about $110 i will just go with TV then, saving that $90 will not make me feel comfortable as i will always keep thinking about the quality or difference, i am still buying TV eyepieces in future for other things such as DSO or planetary, they Plossls are the cheapest i can see, i am able to pay up to $250 for one eyepiece anyway, i don't think i need like 5-10 eyepieces for solar right now or soon.

If you plan to get dedicated energy-rejection filter for Ha solar - get Baader 35nm, it will protect your Quark far better than UV/IR cut filter.

Regarding difference in view between EPs, it's never 50%. The Law of Diminished Returns can be applied in optics freely, but in optics
further away from objective (lens/mirror) - the less is the component's influence on overall image quality is.
It also depends on your preferences. For example:
I still have Nikon Monarch 7 8x42 bino, which is very solid upper mid-range birding bino. It was retired when I got Zeiss Victory Pocket 8x25 bino, which cost almost twice and the visual difference in image is rather small to untrained eyes, but it's there and it's not 50% difference.

TareqPhoto · Post by **TareqPhoto** » Thu Mar 10, 2022 6:45 pm

vkx86 wrote: ↑Thu Mar 10, 2022 6:32 pm
TareqPhoto wrote: ↑Thu Mar 10, 2022 1:11 pm I am just asking, i might try, or not, depending on people suggestions or opinions, i already have the filter, and i am planning to buy another UV/IR cut filter so i use this dedicated only for solar things, i don't want to keep swapping filters between DSO and solar and planetary, and it is a cheap filter anyway, but does the brand of filter here really matter such as getting Baader U/I cut or from ZWO or from Astrodon?

It depends on how much is that from Baader and from TV, if the difference is like 50% or more then i can say it is not worthy, Baader isn't cheap as well, so if that TV EP is about $200 and Baader is about $110 i will just go with TV then, saving that $90 will not make me feel comfortable as i will always keep thinking about the quality or difference, i am still buying TV eyepieces in future for other things such as DSO or planetary, they Plossls are the cheapest i can see, i am able to pay up to $250 for one eyepiece anyway, i don't think i need like 5-10 eyepieces for solar right now or soon.
If you plan to get dedicated energy-rejection filter for Ha solar - get Baader 35nm, it will protect your Quark far better than UV/IR cut filter.

Ah yes, so then i better pass that UV/IR cut filter, but, later if i will use the wedge for WL and K-Line filter then i think i will use UV/IR cut instead.
So that Baader 35nm Ha is a regular narrowbanding filter or it is a filter designed for solar ERF?

Regarding difference in view between EPs, it's never 50%. The Law of Diminished Returns can be applied in optics freely, but in optics
further away from objective (lens/mirror) - the less is the component's influence on overall image quality is.
It also depends on your preferences. For example:
I still have Nikon Monarch 7 8x42 bino, which is very solid upper mid-range birding bino. It was retired when I got Zeiss Victory Pocket 8x25 bino, which cost almost twice and the visual difference in image is rather small to untrained eyes, but it's there and it's not 50% difference.

About 50% i was talking about the price, not the performance or magnification, because if the difference in price is like the twice or more then maybe i won't go with TV one, but if the difference is less then i don't mind to pay more and get TV, after all i think i am willing to pay more for 1 high end or high quality eyepieces which will live forever maybe, then i can add more cheap ones later.

Post by **marktownley** » Thu Mar 10, 2022 7:01 pm

I just use cheap 25mm and 32mm plossls with my Quark for visual.

You can spend more but the law of diminishing returns soon sets in as said above...

EGRAY_OBSERVATORY · Post by **EGRAY_OBSERVATORY** » Thu Mar 10, 2022 7:14 pm

Absolutely agree Mark, as almost any old and cheap E.P. is sufficient for Solar and Lunar purposes/viewing, so it seems that only for Planetary-Dark Sky purposes would one need to look at more expensive types and manufacturers.

Perhaps for Planetary/D.S., purposes many of these questions need be allocated to the relevant web-sites ??

Terry

vkx86 · Post by **vkx86** » Thu Mar 10, 2022 7:15 pm

TareqPhoto wrote: ↑Thu Mar 10, 2022 6:45 pm Ah yes, so then i better pass that UV/IR cut filter, but, later if i will use the wedge for WL and K-Line filter then i think i will use UV/IR cut instead.
So that Baader 35nm Ha is a regular narrowbanding filter or it is a filter designed for solar ERF?

For WL with wedge, Baader Continuum is usual recommendation both for visual and imaging - I had one for visual with wedge and it's very good in boosting contrast. It already has UV/IR cut capabilities in it.

I have no idea what's recommended for K-line, since it's for imaging only and I have no interest in it currently.

Baader 35 nm is regular narrowband filter in first place, that is also very good in protecting mica etalons due to it's very good energy-rejection performance.

TareqPhoto · Post by **TareqPhoto** » Thu Mar 10, 2022 8:17 pm

marktownley wrote: ↑Thu Mar 10, 2022 7:01 pm I just use cheap 25mm and 32mm plossls with my Quark for visual.

You can spend more but the law of diminishing returns soon sets in as said above...

I really need to read more about that, but if you are as a mod and long time experience using a cheap plossls then i should listen or follow, ok, you got me, i will buy a cheap ones then.

TareqPhoto · Post by **TareqPhoto** » Thu Mar 10, 2022 8:19 pm

EGRAY_OBSERVATORY wrote: ↑Thu Mar 10, 2022 7:14 pm Absolutely agree Mark, as almost any old and cheap E.P. is sufficient for Solar and Lunar purposes/viewing, so it seems that only for Planetary-Dark Sky purposes would one need to look at more expensive types and manufacturers.

Perhaps for Planetary/D.S., purposes many of these questions need be allocated to the relevant web-sites ??

Terry

I have some eyepieces that came with few of my scopes including my ST80, and i bought two more, so i have 25mm, i will try that before i buy another one, not sure what is a plossl means, as the one i have isn't a plossl if i understand.

TareqPhoto · Post by **TareqPhoto** » Thu Mar 10, 2022 8:24 pm

vkx86 wrote: ↑Thu Mar 10, 2022 7:15 pm
TareqPhoto wrote: ↑Thu Mar 10, 2022 6:45 pm Ah yes, so then i better pass that UV/IR cut filter, but, later if i will use the wedge for WL and K-Line filter then i think i will use UV/IR cut instead.
So that Baader 35nm Ha is a regular narrowbanding filter or it is a filter designed for solar ERF?

For WL with wedge, Baader Continuum is usual recommendation both for visual and imaging - I had one for visual with wedge and it's very good in boosting contrast. It already has UV/IR cut capabilities in it.

I have no idea what's recommended for K-line, since it's for imaging only and I have no interest in it currently.

Baader 35 nm is regular narrowband filter in first place, that is also very good in protecting mica etalons due to it's very good energy-rejection performance.

I have a CaK which we agree that we call it as K-Line better, and that is for imaging only, so i am talking about imaging here, and they mentioned that for scopes like above 80mm up to 120mm should be used only, but i think for K-Line which is in UV band or little bit beyond then i should NOT use and UV cut filter then, the wedge can take care of the heat i believe, i forgot that K-Line is UV zone.

I saw that Baader 3nm Ha is out of stock everywhere, almost difficult to get it, so now i don't know what is a next option, but what about 7nm filter, is that too much narrow for it? For now i am only using my ST80 stopping it down to something i don't know, does that really need any kind of ERF anyway even for visual?

EGRAY_OBSERVATORY · Post by **EGRAY_OBSERVATORY** » Thu Mar 10, 2022 9:00 pm

for the last part of your last post, only say with an 80mm refractor - you might need to stop the aperture down to say 50mm - if the particular camera requires.

Cut-out 40 / 50 / 60 mm APERTURE F-STOPPERS and try them. (They may not even be necessary in your location, but trial and error is the way forward)...

Even most ordinary cameras/DSLR's etc., automatically stop-down/F-stop on request or when the light is too-much for its' sensor and dependent on the shutter-speed/ISO Rating for best capture...