disassemble the quark.
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disassemble the quark.
I mustered up the courage to disassemble the quark
Perhaps the first inside a quark.
The structure is not complicated.
The filters at both ends are fixed and do not move.
The two black lines in the center did not match, so I applied a little force to match the black lines. After assembly, it works without any problems.
Please understand that my English is not fluent.
clear sky.
Jongho
Perhaps the first inside a quark.
The structure is not complicated.
The filters at both ends are fixed and do not move.
The two black lines in the center did not match, so I applied a little force to match the black lines. After assembly, it works without any problems.
Please understand that my English is not fluent.
clear sky.
Jongho
Last edited by mami813 on Fri Nov 25, 2022 1:38 pm, edited 2 times in total.
- Bastelhannes
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Re: disassemble the quark.
You did it!
I bow my head. Your really were brave enough to put it apart. Very interesting. The heating looks like a drunken worker lost some pudding in there.
Was there air between the cake layers and the housing? Or was it pressed in? (You really save me a lot of money, I am looking for defect units just to figure this out by myself).
Well done!
I bow my head. Your really were brave enough to put it apart. Very interesting. The heating looks like a drunken worker lost some pudding in there.
Was there air between the cake layers and the housing? Or was it pressed in? (You really save me a lot of money, I am looking for defect units just to figure this out by myself).
Well done!
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Re: disassemble the quark.
Does that mean that it did not work properly before? But after reassembly it works better?
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Re: disassemble the quark.
Jongho, this is a great post.
There are some interesting points to consider from your images. There are 3 external connections on the circuit board, USB 5v in , thermostat sensor and heater out.
If you have an electrically non functioning Quark, you could replace the internal circuit board with 2 easily available components. Mounted outside of the Quark.
You would need a W1209 thermostat module and a 12v to 5v converter. you would also need a 12v dc supply to power the W1209 module.
If the heater element in the Quark has failed you could use Nichrome wire ( the same wire used in dew heaters) and make a new element.
You would have to calibrate this new setup to find the right temperature range.
This could be an inexpensive way to revive a dead Quark.
Martin
There are some interesting points to consider from your images. There are 3 external connections on the circuit board, USB 5v in , thermostat sensor and heater out.
If you have an electrically non functioning Quark, you could replace the internal circuit board with 2 easily available components. Mounted outside of the Quark.
You would need a W1209 thermostat module and a 12v to 5v converter. you would also need a 12v dc supply to power the W1209 module.
If the heater element in the Quark has failed you could use Nichrome wire ( the same wire used in dew heaters) and make a new element.
You would have to calibrate this new setup to find the right temperature range.
This could be an inexpensive way to revive a dead Quark.
Martin
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Re: disassemble the quark.
It looked good even before adjustment. There was no feeling of improvement after tuning.
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Re: disassemble the quark.
There is a little air gap with the housing.Bastelhannes wrote: ↑Wed Sep 21, 2022 3:18 pm
Was there air between the cake layers and the housing? Or was it pressed in?
There is a slight gap between the etalon assembly and the housing.
As you can see in the photo, the etalon assembly is different in size. The middle etalon is not a perfect fit, but has a fine gap. The two filters on either end are smaller than the etalon.
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Re: disassemble the quark.
Thanks for sharing a good repair method.Martin_S wrote: ↑Wed Sep 21, 2022 11:23 pm Jongho, this is a great post.
There are some interesting points to consider from your images. There are 3 external connections on the circuit board, USB 5v in , thermostat sensor and heater out.
If you have an electrically non functioning Quark, you could replace the internal circuit board with 2 easily available components. Mounted outside of the Quark.
You would need a W1209 thermostat module and a 12v to 5v converter. you would also need a 12v dc supply to power the W1209 module.
If the heater element in the Quark has failed you could use Nichrome wire ( the same wire used in dew heaters) and make a new element.
You would have to calibrate this new setup to find the right temperature range.
This could be an inexpensive way to revive a dead Quark.
Martinmod.jpgQmod.jpgQmod1.jpgQmod2.jpg
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Re: disassemble the quark.
Amazing information !
Thanks for sharing.
Thanks for sharing.
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Re: disassemble the quark.
Martin, thank you very much for the idea.
Currently I am setting up a remote control for etalon heatings. Based on a Arduino Nano, MAX 31865 and a relais. The hardware works. The only problem: i can't program and need to learn it now.
Currently I am setting up a remote control for etalon heatings. Based on a Arduino Nano, MAX 31865 and a relais. The hardware works. The only problem: i can't program and need to learn it now.
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Re: disassemble the quark.
Great post. So the etalon is only connected to the red housing at the top. Are there two sets of screws there? (One set of three to hold the etalon to the housing and one set of four to hold the etalon oven together?) It may be possible to devise a tilter for fine/rapid tuning of the etalon using the outer-most set of screws.
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Re: disassemble the quark.
I do like a good disassembly thread!
Can you post a pic of the rear side of the printed circuit board please?
I am keen to put a 'proper' power connection on my quark rather than the temperamental USB socket.
Can you post a pic of the rear side of the printed circuit board please?
I am keen to put a 'proper' power connection on my quark rather than the temperamental USB socket.
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Re: disassemble the quark.
Mark, the USB socket is wave soldered, so be careful. This is my solution for the dodgy USB socket.marktownley wrote: ↑Fri Sep 23, 2022 4:53 pm I do like a good disassembly thread!
Can you post a pic of the rear side of the printed circuit board please?
I am keen to put a 'proper' power connection on my quark rather than the temperamental USB socket.
H alpha : ,Skywatcher 120mm F8 open frame refractor, a tilted 2" 7nm H-alpha filter as a sub energy rejection filter, Baader TZ4 telecentric focal extender, Player One energy rejection filter, Combo Quark Chromosphere, Naked PST etalon for double stacking, ASI74mm camera
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Re: disassemble the quark.
hello, markmarktownley wrote: ↑Fri Sep 23, 2022 4:53 pm I do like a good disassembly thread!
Can you post a pic of the rear side of the printed circuit board please?
I am keen to put a 'proper' power connection on my quark rather than the temperamental USB socket.
Unfortunately I have already assembled it.
Sorry for not being of any help.
Try disassembling your quark. After assembling it, it worked normally.
In particular, the back side of the board can be seen without disassembling the etalon housing.
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Re: disassemble the quark.
Thanks Martin, can you elaborate a little more on the connection setup you've got going on?Martin_S wrote: ↑Fri Sep 23, 2022 8:47 pmMark, the USB socket is wave soldered, so be careful. This is my solution for the dodgy USB socket.marktownley wrote: ↑Fri Sep 23, 2022 4:53 pm I do like a good disassembly thread!
Can you post a pic of the rear side of the printed circuit board please?
I am keen to put a 'proper' power connection on my quark rather than the temperamental USB socket.
20220924_063954.jpgimage020.jpg
Mark
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Re: disassemble the quark.
H alpha : ,Skywatcher 120mm F8 open frame refractor, a tilted 2" 7nm H-alpha filter as a sub energy rejection filter, Baader TZ4 telecentric focal extender, Player One energy rejection filter, Combo Quark Chromosphere, Naked PST etalon for double stacking, ASI74mm camera
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Re: disassemble the quark.
Take the PCB to electronics repairs shop - they should fix it for few quids.marktownley wrote: ↑Fri Sep 23, 2022 4:53 pm I am keen to put a 'proper' power connection on my quark rather than the temperamental USB socket.
Or try yourself with soda soldering paste - see how it works
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Re: disassemble the quark.
Awesome disassembly
Me thinks these two lines are exactly on 2 plates that hold mica etalon sheet between them.
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Re: disassemble the quark.
Jongho,
Did you disassemble the etalon itself? That's something DayStar highly recommends people not to do. It's amazing you disassembled the Quark and got it back together and working again. That's awesome!!
James
Did you disassemble the etalon itself? That's something DayStar highly recommends people not to do. It's amazing you disassembled the Quark and got it back together and working again. That's awesome!!
James
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Re: disassemble the quark.
hi,JamesDeepSolar64 wrote: ↑Mon Oct 17, 2022 3:55 am Jongho,
Did you disassemble the etalon itself? That's something DayStar highly recommends people not to do. It's amazing you disassembled the Quark and got it back together and working again. That's awesome!!
James
It wasn't as difficult as I thought.
However, the etalon assembly cannot be disassembled.
But this has to be touched very carefully.
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Re: disassemble the quark.
It may have been the etalon assembly that DayStar was warning the most about concerning disassembly.
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